KitchenAid Appliance Repair



Why Kitchenaid Dishwasher Not Washing

Home dishwashers spare many homeowners from inconvenience and hassle. It’s one of the most practical appliances as they help us save our time and energy.  However, if your dishwashing unit is not washing properly, and you opt to wash your dishes manually, then you are not wasting your precious time.

No one likes to open their dishwashing unit expecting clean plates and glasses, instead greeted with oil and grease from the food that still covers the dinner dishes.  If your dishwasher gets blocked or it begins to leave some debris or dirt on your dishes, it’s recommended to begin investigating the root cause of the problem.  Unfortunately, it’s less likely you need to purchase a new dishwashing unit. In some cases, it’s just a matter of cleaning your dishwasher.

You may wonder if the machine designed to clean would also clean itself, but that isn’t the case with the KitchenAid dishwasher.  Similar to your shower that requires to be cleaned regularly so you can get clean, or the washing machine should be free from dirt so your laundry can get clean, so does your dishwashing unit. When your KitchenAid dishwasher is not washing, then a basic cleaning will make a difference.  Although, it requires knowledge and skills in order to repair the problem. You may initially perform the basic troubleshoot to address the specific issue and learn when it’s the right time to seek professional help.

Common Causes Of Dishwasher Not Washing Properly

In some cases, a visual check of the dishwashing unit is the most practical step to begin diagnosing the issue. When you immediately observe residues or clogs, then a thorough cleaning is required. Once there is water accumulated at the bottom, then perhaps the filter or drain hose must be cleared from debris or dirt.

Like regular maintenance on your vehicle to keep it running in the best shape, regular check for your KitchenAid dishwasher if cleaning is necessary. Always remember to check your user’s manual to make sure you are using the appropriate detergent, the right setting, and placing the dishes in an ideal pattern.

You’ll need to check if your KitchenAid dishwasher is experiencing any of the common problems:

  • buildup scale and residue
  • broken water inlet hose
  • blocked spray arms
  • clogged Course Filter
  • defective soap dispenser
  • dirty drain reservoir, rain reservoir, and pump impeller

KitchenAid Dishwasher Not Starting or Not Operating

There are several reasons why your KitchenAid dishwasher not starting or not operating:

  • control lock is on
  • dishwasher is in sleep mode
  • delayed wash option is selected
  • door is not completely closed and latched
  • water supply is not turned on
  • the power needs to be cycled to reset the dishwasher

Is the control lock “on” or is the dishwasher in sleep mode?

Dishwasher control lock.jpg

The control lock is used to avoid unintended use of the dishwasher as well as to avoid unintended cycle or option changes during a cycle, some model have a sleep mode function. The control lock light will stay on for a short time, indicating that it is activated and all buttons are disabled. If any buttons are pressed while the dishwasher control is locked, the light will flash three times. The door can still be opened/closed while the controls are locked.

NOTE:  You may need to disable Sleep Mode by pressing either START/RESUME or CANCEL, or by opening and closing the door before you are able to turn the control lock off.

To turn off the control lock feature:

  1. Press and hold the Lock Button for four seconds, the lock light will turn off.

Has a delay wash option been selected?

A delay wash option runs the dishwasher at a later time or during off-peak electrical hours. If the delay wash has been selected, the dishwasher will not run until the delay time is reached.

To Turn Off the Delay Wash Feature:

  1. Press CANCEL/DRAIN to cancel the delay.
  2. Press START/RESUME to start the cycle.

Is the door completely closed and latched?

Make sure that the door is completely closed and latched. A lower dish rack that is installed backward can also cause the door to not latch properly.

Is the water supply turned on to the dishwasher?

Make sure the dishwasher water supply is turned on. See installation instructions for your model if you are unsure how to check this.

How to reset the dishwasher:

Much like a computer, resetting the dishwasher control can sometimes solve the issues you are experiencing. To reset the dishwasher control panel, it needs to be disconnected from the power source for one minute. If your dishwasher is plugged into an outlet, simply unplug the unit for one minute and then plug the unit back in. If the dishwasher is hard wired to the power supply, turn the breaker off at the home electrical panel that powers the dishwasher for one minute and then turn the breaker back on.


While a part malfunction may need a repair, a KitchenAid dishwasher not cleaning as it should could require just a simple intervention. From proper cleaning methods to the right detergent, here’s how you can improve your dishwasher’s performance.

Dishwasher Loading Problem

Loading issues are one of the most common reasons a KitchenAid dishwasher leaves dishes dirty. Overcrowding the racks restricts access to water and detergent so dishes don’t get clean. Allowing items to block the spray arms or detergent dispenser can further limit water and detergent access.

kitchenaid dishwasher leaves dishes dirty

Follow these dishwasher loading tips for cleaner dishes:

  • Leave space between each item: Load one dish per slot and avoid overlapping bowls and glasses so water and detergent can reach each item.
  • Face items toward the spray arms: Position dishes facing inward and bowls and glasses upside down for proper cleaning and rinsing.
  • Avoid blocking spray arms and detergent dispenser: Turn the spray arm by hand before starting the dishwasher to make sure it’s free of obstructions and rotates fully. Make sure items in the silverware basket are properly contained, allowing the detergent dispenser to open fully.

Dishwasher Leaving Spots 

If your dishwasher is leaving spots and residue, it’s likely due to hard water. Water hardness is determined by the number of minerals, like calcium and magnesium, in the water. When these minerals mix with soap, they can form a film on dishes that is difficult to remove.

To prevent spots and residue:

  • Use a rinse aid: A rinse aid helps reduce surface tension so water can easily rinse away soapy water leaving behind fewer spots.
  • Run a longer drying cycle: This will help dishes dry completely, preventing spots and residue.
  • Install a water softener: This will remove minerals from the water, making it easier for the dishwasher to clean dishes.

Dishwasher Needs To Be Cleaned 

A KitchenAid dishwasher leaving food residue behind may be in need of a cleaning. Despite regular access to water and detergent, dirt and debris can accumulate in the dishwasher, causing blockages that leave dishes dirty. Regular monthly cleanings can ensure that all components are clean and function optimally.

Here’s how to clean the dishwasher filter, spray arms, and tub:

  • Filter: Rinse the Upper and Lower Filters under running water, scrubbing stubborn stains with a soft brush.

kitchenaid dishwasher not cleaning

  • Spray arms: Remove the upper and lower spray arms and rinse under running water to remove residue. Unclog spray arm holes with a thin, straightened wire before reinstalling them.
  • Tub: Pour three cups of white vinegar into the base of an empty dishwasher and run the longest cleaning cycle with hot water.

Dishwasher Detergent Issue

Is your KitchenAid dishwasher not rinsing soap completely? A detergent issue could be responsible.

A KitchenAid dishwasher not cleaning dishes may have the following detergent problems:

  • Too much or too little: Too much detergent can leave behind residue, while not enough leaves dishes dirty. Refer to your detergent package to determine the right amount and measure it accurately before starting a wash load. Heavily soiled loads or homes with hard water may require more detergent.
  • Detergent dispenser broken: Make sure the dispenser opens and closes properly so the detergent dispenses completely at the right time. A broken dispenser requires replacement.
  • Poor quality detergent: Use a high-quality commercial dishwasher detergent for best results. Maximize freshness and effectiveness by storing it in a cool, dry place.

Problem With Dishwasher Water Supply

The dishwasher requires the proper amount of water at the right temperature and pressure to clean optimally.

Check these water supply issues when you notice your KitchenAid dishwasher not cleaning dishes well:

  • Water not hot enough: A dishwasher’s water temperature should be at least 120℉ to clean sufficiently. You may need to raise the temperature of your home’s hot water heater to improve dishwasher performance. Running the hot water in your kitchen sink before starting a wash cycle can ensure that it’s readily available to the dishwasher.
  • Water pressure too low: The water inlet valve requires at least 20 psi of pressure to open, allowing water to flow from your home supply to the dishwasher. If the water pressure is too low, the valve won’t open to supply the dishwasher with enough water. If possible, increase your home’s water pressure so the valve can function properly.
  • Part failure: In other cases, the water inlet valve may be broken, restricting the dishwasher’s water supply. Spray arms are also prone to cracks and malfunctions that limit water access. These parts must be replaced for the dishwasher to function correctly.

Dishwasher still not cleaning as it should? A professional dishwasher repair service should have a look. Schedule an appointment with one of our expert technicians to solve the problem!


If you’re looking for help fixing your KitchenAid Refrigerator, look no further! Our comprehensive KitchenAid Refrigerator Troubleshooting guide will explain common issues, provide tips, and show you how to read your model’s error codes.


#1 Refrigerator Condenser Coils Dirty 
This is a pretty common cause for a KitchenAid refrigerator not cooling. The condenser cools are responsible for dispersing heat. However, if they develop a thick layer of dust, hair and other debris, they cannot do their job. Thus, the refrigerator has to pick up the slack and work much harder to keep cool. When the refrigerator has to run constantly, the internal temperature climbs, warming your food and drink.
If this is the problem, clean the refrigerator condenser coils so they can get back to work. You’ll typically find the coils underneath the refrigerator. Wipe them off with a long bottle brush or use a vacuum hose to clear the debris. To avoid future problems, we recommend cleaning your condenser coils once or twice each year.

#2 Refrigerator Thermistor Broken 
The refrigerator thermistor keeps track of the internal temperature. It signals the control board, which in turn dictates what the compressor and evaporator fan should do to maintain a cool reading. A faulty thermistor may send an incorrect reading to the control board, throwing everything out of whack. If the compressor and evaporator fan don’t run when they’re supposed to, the refrigerator temperature will continue to increase.
You can test the thermistor with a multimeter and determine if it is accurate. It will need to be replaced if there is no continuity or if the reading is incorrect. You can purchase a new thermistor from an appliance parts store or have a professional replace it for you.

#3 Defective Refrigerator Evaporator Fan Motor 
The evaporator fan motor is a crucial part of your refrigerator. It pulls air over the evaporator coils and disperses this cool air through the refrigerator, keeping everything at the perfect temperature. You may notice that your KitchenAid refrigerator is warm but the freezer is cold if the evaporator fan motor isn’t working.
Locate the evaporator fan and try to spin the blade. If it doesn’t move, then the motor needs to be replaced. A loud noise is indicative of a faulty motor as well. If this is the case, replace the evaporator fan motor with a new one.

#4 Faulty Refrigerator Start Relay 
Another possible cause of a KitchenAid refrigerator not cooling is a faulty start relay. The start relay helps to start the compressor, and thus cool the refrigerator. If this relay isn’t working, the compressor won’t run and temperatures will rise.
You can test the start relay with a multimeter and replace it if necessary.

KitchenAid Washer Won’t Drain? Here’s What to Do

Check the Lid or Door Switch

Washers contain failsafe switches that will stop the wash cycle when the lid or door is open. This includes drainage. If your washer won’t drain, it’s possible that the switch on the lid or door is faulty and is not properly closing. This will stop the wash cycle and cause your machine to stop draining.

To test whether this is the case, press down firmly on the lid or door to apply extra pressure. If this kickstarts the draining process, contact a professional appliance repair technician and tell them you need to get the lid or door switch replaced.

Drain and Clear Your Washer

If the door or lid of your washer is closed properly and it still won’t drain, you will first need to drain the remaining wash water and remove the laundry before continuing to diagnose the problem.

The right way to manually drain your washer depends on the model.

For most top-loading washers, follow this method:

  1. Turn off the water supply to your washer at the faucet.
  2. Unplug the washer’s power connection at the wall.
  3. Take the washer out from the wall so you can access the back.
  4. Locate the drain hose. Typically, it will be a grey hose, while the hoses supplying the water to the washer will be blue and red.
  5. Follow the drain hose to where it connects to the wall outlet pipe. Place some towels and a large bucket there.
  6. Firmly pull the hose from the pipe to remove it; then aim the hose into the bucket. Drain until water stops flowing.
  7. Reconnect the drain hose to the wall outlet pipe.
  8. Replace your washer and turn the water and power back on.

If your model is a front-loader follow these steps:

  1. Turn off the water and power supply to your washer.
  2. Locate the service panel. This is typically located on the front panel of the washer at the bottom left or right-hand corner. Remove the panel.
  3. If your model has a drain hose, aim it into a large bucket, and remove the plug. Let it drain completely.
  4. If your model does not have a drain hose, place a large bucket in front of the filter cap, and remove the drain filter by twisting it counterclockwise and pulling it toward you. Be prepared for a large flow of water.
  5. Replace the drain hose plug or filter, and turn the power and water back on.

Ensure the Drain Hose Is Unblocked

A blockage or kink in the drain hose can stop your washer from draining. While you have the washer pulled out from the wall and the drain hose disconnected from the wall outlet pipe, take the time to check for these things.

Here’s what to look for:

  • Check along the length of the hose for kinks or sharp bends, and remove these by untwisting.
  • Clean around the wall outlet pipe with a wet cloth or dish brush to remove scum or mold buildups.
  • Carefully feel along the length of the hose for any foreign objects that could be blocking it. If there is something inside, you can squeeze it out or use a long, thin object, like a straw cleaning brush, to remove it.
  • Remove the other end of the drain hose from the washer, and use hot water and detergent to rinse the hose out before replacing it.

Unblock the Drain Filter

Wash water passes through the drain filter before being drained to stop foreign matter from being washed out with the wastewater.

The filter can become blocked, commonly with lint, earrings, hairpins, or even socks. If this happens, the washer won’t drain. Luckily, this is an easy problem to fix.

Here’s how to do it:

  1. Turn off the power and water to your washer.
  2. Manually drain any remaining wash water and remove clothes.
  3. Remove the drain filter. In front-loaders, this is located in the access panel, usually in the bottom left or right-hand corner of the front panel of the washer. In top-loaders, this is usually in the washer’s central column.
  4. Check the filter and its housing thoroughly for foreign objects and remove these.
  5. Use a dish brush, hot water, and detergent to thoroughly clean lint, gunk, or mold from the filter; then rinse with clean water.
  6. Replace the filter and reconnect the water and power supply to your washer.

Check the Sump Hose for Blockages

The sump hose connects the washer tub to the drain pump. It is a short, wide hose that can become blocked with larger objects like socks or jewelry. If it gets blocked, it can stop the washer from draining.

Here’s how to access the sump hose and clear it out:

  1. Turn off the water supply to your washer, and unplug the power supply at the wall.
  2. Drain any remaining wash water and remove clothes.
  3. Carefully take out the washer from the wall, and tip it over so it is laying on its back.
  4. Locate the pump hose. It is usually black or dark gray and is short but wide.
  5. Place down towels to catch any drips or spills.
  6. Remove each end of the hose. You may need to use pliers to loosen a jubilee clip or a Phillips-head screwdriver to loosen a clamp holding the hose on at the connection points.
  7. Remove the sump hose and remove any objects inside. Use a dish brush, hot water, and detergent to clean it out thoroughly before rinsing with clean water.
  8. Replace the sump hose.
  9. Replace your washer and turn on the water and power.

KitchenAid Washing Machine Troubleshooting

KitchenAid manufactures several different models of washing machines for use in the home. As with most appliances, your KitchenAid washing machine may not always operate as intended. When a problem arises with your washer, troubleshoot the reason for the malfunction and attempt a fix yourself.

Washer Does Not Drain or Spin

If you find your KitchenAid washing machine is not draining the water or entering a spin cycle, check that the washer lid is securely closed. The machine will automatically turn off if the lid is opened during operation and will not restart until the lid is closed and the “Start” button is pressed.

Next, check that the drain hose is not clogged. To check the drain hose, unplug the machine, and remove the drain hose from the back of the washer. Clear out any obstruction, and place the hose back on the machine. Plug the washer into the power outlet, and restart the machine to check if the problem has been fixed.

Finally, make sure the drainage hose is no more than 96 inches above the floor. The water will have problems draining if it is too far above the floor. Make any needed adjustments before using the washing machine again.

Cycle is Stuck Filling or Draining

KitchenAid washing machines may seem as if they are stuck in a continuous cycle, where the water continues to fill up or drain from the machine. When this happens, check that the top of the drain hose is sitting above the water level in the machine. If the drain hose sits below the water level, the washing machine will stick in a loop. Make the adjustment to the drainage hose as needed.

Another cause of stuck cycles is the drain hose attachment to the standpipe. The hose should fit securely on the standpipe but not tight. A gap is needed for air flow to help the drainage process. Remove anything used to seal the hose, such as tape, and allow the hose to sit loosely on the standpipe.

Wrong Wash Temperature

A common mistake made when installing KitchenAid washing machines is to mix up the hot and cold water inlet hoses. If the wash temperature is hot when you set it to cold, or vice versa, the water inlet hoses were switched. Unplug the washing machine, turn off the water supply and switch the hoses before using the machine again.

If you run loads of laundry through the machine back to back, you may drain the hot water heater in your home. This is normal and can be prevented by waiting a short period of time for the hot water supply to replenish.

KitchenAid Dryer Not Heating?

1. Blocked Airflow

If your KitchenAid dryer is still heating but heating slowly and generally doing a poor job of drying your clothes, there is likely a problem with the airflow. The lint screen should be emptied after each cycle. If the lint screen gets blocked up, the moisture in the air stays in the dryer drum longer, causing the dryer to take longer to dry your clothes.

Like the lint trap, a blockage in the ventilation hose or duct will reduce the dryer’s ability to dry your clothes. There is also a greater chance of lint damaging other parts of your dryer. If you can access the outside vent, you can test the ventilation is working by checking for a warm, consistent airflow. Cleaning out the ventilation will improve your dryer’s heating performance and reduce the risk of a fire starting due to a lint blockage.

  1. Unplug the dryer from the power source and turn off the gas (gas dryers).
  2. Take out the ventilation hose by removing the metal tape, unscrewing or unclipping it from the rear of the dryer. Removing the panel surrounding the ventilation area can provide better access to the area.
  3. Check that the ventilation area and hose are free of lint.
  4. Clean out the ventilation duct with a vacuum attachment or vacuum ventilation cleaning kit.
  5. Reconnect the ventilation hose to the dryer, making sure it is not kinked or bent so that air can flow freely through the hose.

2. Tripped Circuit Breaker

If your KitchenAid dryer has suddenly stopped heating, check the circuit breaker panel or fuse box. An electric dryer has two breakers, one for heating and one for power. Sometimes, the breaker responsible for heating gets tripped, which means the dryer runs but does not heat.

  1. Check your electrical panel for tripped circuit breakers or fuses.
  2. Reset any tripped circuit breakers and replace any blown fuses.
  3. The dryer’s breakers can also be checked with a multimeter to make sure each circuit is delivering the 120 volts (110 volts on some models) that the dryer needs to work properly.

3. Heating Element (Electric Dryers)

If your KitchenAid dryer is not heating, one of the most common reasons is a fault with the heating element. The heating element consists of a coil of wire inside a metal casing. If the coil breaks or overheats, the heating element will likely stop working. A partially damaged heating element may also cause the dryer to overheat. Sometimes, a break in the coil can be difficult to spot, so it pays to use a multimeter to test the heating element coils.

  1. Unplug the dryer from the power source.
  2. Locate the heating element by referring to the dryer manual. Depending on the model, you will need to remove the front or rear access panel.
  3. Check the heating element for signs of burning or coil breakage. If the coil is broken, the heating element will need to be replaced.
  4. Use a multimeter to test the heating element for continuity. Replace the heating element if it fails the multimeter test.

4. Thermal Fuse

Another reason why your KitchenAid dryer may not be heating is a faulty thermal fuse. The thermal fuse is a safety device to prevent the dryer from catching fire. Older KitchenAid models typically have a thermal fuse that allows the dryer to keep working when tripped but without the heat. Newer models tend to feature a thermal fuse that, when tripped, turns off the dryer. If you determine the thermal fuse is at fault, make sure to determine what caused it to blow and fix the issue.

  1. Unplug the dryer from the power source and turn off the gas (gas dryers).
  2. Consult your dryer’s manual to locate the thermal fuse. Depending on the model, you will need to remove either the top, front, or rear access panel.
  3. With the access panel removed, locate the thermal fuse, usually on the blower housing or at the dryer’s heat source, and remove it.
  4. Test the thermal fuse for continuity with a multimeter.
  5. Replace a defective thermal fuse with a new one.

5. Gas Valve Solenoid

Gas dryers use a gas valve solenoid to allow the flow of gas into the burner assembly. The gas valve solenoid has two or three coils, which, when damaged, will not allow the dryer to heat. The coils can be examined for breaks or burning and tested with a multimeter to determine if they are defective. The igniter can also be checked to see if it glows and goes out but does not ignite the gas, which would indicate the gas valve solenoid is defective.

  1. Unplug the dryer from the power source.
  2. Turn off the gas supply to the dryer.
  3. Use your dryer’s manual to locate the gas valve solenoid. Remove the appropriate access panel.
  4. Remove the coils from the gas valve solenoid.
  5. Use a multimeter to test the coils for continuity.
  6. Replace any defective coils.

Additional Causes

The following parts can also wear over time and cause heating issues. Consult your KitchenAid dryer manual to locate the part. Remember to disconnect the dryer from the power source and turn off the gas before accessing these parts. Test each part with a multimeter to determine if it needs to be replaced.

  • High-Limit Thermostat
  • Cycling Thermostat
  • Flame Sensor (Gas Dryers)
  • Igniter (Gas Dryers)
  • Timer

How to Troubleshoot a KitchenAid Dryer

If your KitchenAid dryer is not working properly or refuses to start entirely, you may be able to diagnose and fix the problem yourself.

Strange noises, dryer vibration, loss of heat and no power are all common problems with simple solutions that KitchenAid describes in the troubleshooting section of your dryer’s owner’s manual. Save yourself the cost of a repair bill by ruling out these issues before you call for repair service.

  1. Check the door of the KitchenAid dryer to make sure that it is closed. The dryer will not run if the door is open.
  2. Press the start button of the dryer firmly and hold it down for one full second.
  3. Check the fuses or circuit breakers if the KitchenAid dryer will not run or does not heat. Replace any burnt out fuses or reset the circuit breakers. Start the dryer to see if the problem is resolved.
  4. Run your finger along the edge of the dryer drum — the part of the dryer that holds clothes — to look for any coins, buttons or other items that may be caught in this space. These items could cause unusual noises during operation.
  5. Clean out the lint screen of your KitchenAid dryer. A clogged lint screen can interfere with the dryer’s operation and increase drying times.
  6. Check the dryer to make sure that it is level if it vibrates or makes unusual sounds. Make sure that the legs of the dryer are installed properly if it is not level.
  7. Turn the dryer on and let it run for five to 10 minutes. Place your hand over the exhaust vent of your dryer. You should feel warm hair exiting this port, if you do not, the vent is clogged and must be cleaned.
  8. Press and hold the start button after a power failure to restart your dryer if the display panel reads “PF.” The dryer should now operate normally.


You will need to contact a repair specialist if you cannot remedy the problem or if the display panel on your KitchenAid dryer reads “E1,” E2,” or “E3.” If your clothes are wrinkled after drying or do not become dry in a reasonable amount of time, try running smaller loads in the dryer.

KitchenAid Dryer Drum Not Turning

Inspect the Drive Belt

The drive belt is long and thin and goes around the entire drum. Its main function is to help the dryer drum turn around. When it stops working, the dryer will stop turning and will need to be replaced.

You can check the drive belt by:

  1. Trying to turn the dryer drum around manually.
  2. If the drum turns around without much resistance, then the belt is probably broken. If there is resistance, then it is most likely OK, so you can move on to checking the next component.
  3. Before replacing the drive belt, you need to confirm it is broken by inspecting it. You can inspect the belt by removing the dryer’s side panels.
  4. If you find it’s broken, you’ll need to replace it.

Check the Drum Roller

The next step is to check the drum rollers. You will find two rollers at the rear of the drum, and in some models, there might also be two additional rollers that support the front of the dryer drum. When they get worn out, the dryer will stop turning.

You can check the rollers by:

  1. Taking the side panels off the dryer and removing the belt from the dryer. You should then check to see if you can turn the drum around by hand.
  2. If it turns freely, then it is fine, and you can put the belt back on and then move on to checking the next component. If it does not turn easily, check the rollers for any signs of wear and tear.
  3. If one or more of the rollers are worn out, you should replace all of them. This will help prevent the problem from occurring again.
  4. When replacing the drum rollers, the roller shaft doesn’t need to be replaced if it isn’t worn out – just give it a quick clean before installing the new rollers.

Check the Drum Roller Axle

The next component to inspect is the drum roller axle. Most dryers have two drum support rollers located in the rear of the drum, and in some models, you’ll also find two rollers at the front of the drum. Over time, they can wear out, which causes the drum rollers to bind. When this happens, the motor will overload and stop working.

To check them, simply:

  1. Remove the belt from the dryer and attempt to turn the dryer drum manually around.
  2. If you can spin the drum right around without the rollers “wobbling,” then the rollers are not the source of the problem, and you can go to checking the next component. However, if the drum does not spin freely, then you’ll need to check the rollers for wear and tear.
  3. If the rollers are worn out or damaged, you’ll need to replace all of the axles and rollers. This will stop the problem from happening again.

Check the Drum Bearing

If the drum roller axle is fine, you then need to check the drum bearing. The purpose of the drum bearing is to support the back of the dryer drum. When it gets worn out, the dryer will not be able to turn.

To check the bearing:

  1. Remove the belt from the dryer and then attempt to turn the dryer drum by hand – making sure you spin it the whole way around.
  2. If it spins around freely, then the drum bearing is not worn out, and you can move on to checking the next component. But if it makes a squealing or grinding type sound, when you turn the drum, you’ll need to closely inspect the drum bearing when turning the drum to see if it needs to be replaced.
  3. If you find it to be faulty, then replace it.

Test the Drum Support Roller and Axle

The next components to check are the drum support roller and axle. When they wear out, the dryer will stop working. Your dryer will either have two or four support rollers.

To see if they are worn out, you’ll need to:

  1. Remove the dryer belt and then see if you can turn the drum around by hand the whole way around.
  2. If it moves around freely and the rollers do not “wobble” around, then they are not worn out, so move on to checking the next component.
  3. If you do notice that they “wobble” when turning the dryer drum around, then inspect the rollers for signs of wear and tear.
  4. If the rollers are worn out or damaged, we recommend that you replace all the rollers, not just the damaged one(s).

Inspect the Drum Glides

Another possible cause of the problem could be one or more of the dryer’s glides (sometimes called slides) being worn out. The glides are small, plastic components that support the front of the dryer, and when it rotates around, the dryer glides on them. When they get worn out, the dryer drum can start to bind, and this puts pressure on the motor, which causes it to shut down.

To see if they need to be replaced simply:

  1. Check the drum glides for any signs of wear and tear.
  2. If you find any obvious signs of wear and tear, you will need to replace all the glides. If they are in good condition, they will not need to be replaced.

Check the Idler Pulley

Another possible cause of your KitchenAid dryer drum not turning is a faulty idler pulley. The idler pulley is connected to the drum belt and helps it turn around correctly. To see if it is faulty:

  1. Make sure that the idler pulley spins freely on the shaft and is not obstructed in any way.
  2. If it works fine, it is not the cause of the dryer not turning. If the pulley is worn out or is stuck, then replace it along with the drum drive belt.

Test the Drive Motor

Finally, if you still haven’t found the cause of the problem, the last component to check is the drive motor. When the motor is faulty, it will stop the dryer drum from turning.

You can check it by:

  1. Turning the dryer on so the motor is running.
  2. Check if you can hear a humming sound.
  3. If you hear a humming sound, then the next step is to remove the belt from the motor and ensure that the blower wheel is not obstructed in any way. Before doing this step, turn the power off at the wall.
  4. Once the belt is removed, try to move the drum around manually. If the dryer drum can move around and nothing is obstructing the blower wheel, then you should replace the drive motor.

KitchenAid Freezer Not Freezing

The following are parts of the refrigerator to check if your KitchenAid refrigerator is not cooling or freezing:

1. Condenser Fan Motor

Turn the blades of the condenser fan with your hand to know if the motor is faulty. If they don’t turn freely, the fan motor is bad. But if the blades turn freely and there is nothing obstructing them, check the continuity of the motor using a multimeter. If there is no continuity, replace the fan motor.

The condenser fan is responsible for pulling air through the coils and taking it over the compressor. If the motor of the fan is not working, the refrigerator will not get cold.

2. Condenser Coils

Dirty condenser coils will not be able to efficiently dissipate the heat in the refrigerant as it passes through them. This, in turn, will make the refrigerator unable to remain cold or even freeze anything.
Therefore, clean the coils especially if you have never cleaned them before. Repeat the cleaning once every 6 or 12 months.

3. Start Relay

Check the continuity of the start relay by testing it with a multimeter between its start and run terminals. If you don’t find continuity, then the start relay is bad and must be replaced. Additionally, if there is burnt smell coming from the relay, replace it.

The compressor is unlikely to run or could run but not consistently if the start relay is faulty. And if the compressor doesn’t run, the refrigerator will not cool. Therefore, replace it as soon as possible.

4. Evaporator Fan Motor

Try to spin the blades of the fan by hand to see if they spin well. If they don’t, replace the fan motor because it is an indication that it is bad. However, if the blades spin well, test the windings of the fan motor to check for continuity. No continuity in the windings indicates that the fan motor needs to be replaced.

The evaporator fan is responsible for circulating cold air in the refrigerator after drawing it over the coils. If the motor of the fan is defective, there will be cold air in the unit, causing it not to cool.

5. Thermistor

With a multimeter, test the thermistor of the refrigerator. You should see the resistance of the thermistor changing just as the temperature of the refrigerator is changing. If this happens, the thermistor is working fine. But if the resistance doesn’t change and there is no continuity, the thermistor is defective and needs a replacement.

The control board is able to regulate power to the evaporator fan and compressor by depending on the reading of the air temperature sent by the thermistor. So if the thermistor is not working, the board can’t regulate power accurately and the fan and the compressor won’t run as needed. Consequently, the refrigerator will not cool.

6. Start Capacitor

To know if the start capacitor of the refrigerator, found on the compressor, is working, test it with a multimeter to check for continuity. If there is no continuity, replace the capacitor.
Without the start capacitor, it is likely that the compressor will run at short intervals or not run at all.

7. Temperature Control Thermostat

Move the thermostat from the lowest point to the highest point and wait to hear a click. If it clicks, then the thermostat is working fine and is not a problem. But if the thermostat doesn’t click, test it for continuity using a multimeter. If you don’t find continuity in the thermostat at any temperature setting, replace the thermostat.

This video shows you how to replace a temperature control thermostat yourself…

Also, check the compressor, the main control board or the temperature control board if every other part checks out fine. Hardly are these 3 parts ever the cause of a freezing problem. But they can still become defective.

Following these steps will help you solve the problem of a KitchenAid refrigerator not cooling or freezing, no matter the model of the KitchenAid refrigerator – side-by-side, 3-door French door, 4-door French door, top freezer, bottom drawer freezer and all other types.

How to Troubleshoot the KitchenAid Ice Maker

If your KitchenAid Ice Maker is not working use this troubleshooting guide to diagnose common problems.

  • Ice maker turned off
  • Ice maker jammed
  • Water filter needs to be replaced
  • Water system needs to be flushed
  • Check water supply line

Is the ice maker turned on?

Verify that the ice maker is turned on. If the ice maker’s water supply is not connected to water supply line, turn the ice maker off. If the ice maker is on, but disconnected to water supply line, the following could happen:

  • The ice maker will continue to try to make ice, causing a buzzing sound
  • A refrigerator section may to be too cold
  • Food in crisper drawers may freeze

Is the ice maker jammed?

First, ensure that ice is not jammed in the ejector arm of the ice maker. Remove jammed ice from the ejector arm using only a plastic utensil so the ice maker is not damaged. This will likely resolve the issue. Because the ice may not be completely frozen yet, when the harvest fingers try to harvest the ice cubes, the fingers bring up icy water that attaches to the stripper. This icy water can then freeze on the stripper during the next cycle causing an ice bridge. This ice bridge will cause the harvest fingers to jam.

Does your water filter need to be replaced?

A clogged or incorrectly installed water filter will reduce the water flow to the ice maker and could cause thin, low or no ice production.

Was the water system flushed after filter installation or replacement?

Flush the system is needed every time the filter is changed or once the refrigerator is installed to the water supply line for the first time.  Air in the water system may cause dripping at the dispenser or small/hollow ice cubes.

Check the water supply line

When checking the water supply line, ensure the water supply is properly connected to a cold water supply and the water shutoff valve is fully opened.

Next, check to make sure there are no kinks in the water supply line. A kink in the line can reduce water flow. Straighten the water source line to restore adequate water flow and pressure. To help reduce the chances of a pinched water line, do not push the refrigerator too far back against the wall or cabinet.

KitchenAid Refrigerator Ice Maker Not Working?

Refrigerator ice makers mean a cold beverage is always at your fingertips…unless something goes wrong. Why is my KitchenAid refrigerator ice maker not working? The freezer may be set at the wrong temperature, limiting ice production. Determine the most likely reasons for a KitchenAid refrigerator ice maker not making ice and how to solve the problem.

How to Troubleshoot a KitchenAid Refrigerator Ice Maker Not Working

In some cases, a KitchenAid refrigerator ice maker not working requires a professional part replacement. However, sometimes a quick adjustment or DIY fix is all you need to restore proper function. Use these KitchenAid refrigerator ice maker troubleshooting tips to pinpoint the problem and the right solution.

1. KitchenAid Ice Maker Not Turned On

Before troubleshooting any complications, first make sure your ice maker is turned on. Some model refrigerators have a KitchenAid refrigerator ice maker on/off switch on the top right side of the freezer compartment. Make sure the switch is in the “on” position.

For those ice makers without an on/off switch, a wire shutoff arm on top of the unit turns it on or off. The shutoff arm must be in the down position for the ice maker to be turned on.

2. KitchenAid Freezer Temperature Issues

Your freezer temperature must be within a specific range for the ice maker to produce ice. If the temperature is too low (below 0℉) the ice maker’s ejection components can freeze, leaving them unable to dispense ice cubes. A temperature that’s too high (over 10℉) causes the ice maker to produce smaller or misshapen cubes.

If you find your KitchenAid refrigerator ice maker not working properly, check your freezer temperature. It should be between 0-5℉ for optimal ice production.

kitchenaid refrigerator ice maker not working
Image from Best Buy

3. Ice Maker Water Supply Problem

A KitchenAid refrigerator ice maker not filling with water will be unable to produce ice or will make smaller, malformed cubes. Typically, a water supply issue is responsible when your ice maker doesn’t fill sufficiently.

The following issues can affect your ice maker’s water supply:

  • Clogged water filter: A water filter that’s blocked with minerals and debris restricts the flow of water to the ice maker, limiting ice production. Changing your KitchenAid refrigerator water filter every 6 months can prevent clogs. It may need to be changed more frequently if ice production is affected or if ice cubes taste bad.
  • Frozen water line: Occasionally, residual water in the ice maker’s water line can freeze, forming a blockage that restricts water flow. Aiming a hairdryer at the water line can melt the blockage, allowing water to flow. Keeping the freezer within the recommended temperature range can also lessen the chance of the line freezing.
  • Kinked water line: Kinks in the line can also restrict water flow, preventing ice production. Check the water line for kinks and gently straighten them, if possible. If the water line is damaged, it must be replaced.
  • Faulty water inlet valve: The water inlet valve opens and closes to allow water from your home’s water supply to enter the refrigerator. If the valve malfunctions, it may remain closed, prohibiting water from supplying the ice maker. A faulty valve should be professionally replaced.
kitchenaid refrigerator water filter

4. Defective KitchenAid Ice Maker 

If you still find your KitchenAid refrigerator ice maker not working after trying these troubleshooting tips, ice maker components may be defective. If the ice maker module fails, the ice maker won’t receive power to open the water inlet valve or eject ice. Similarly, if the mold thermostat stops functioning, the ice maker molds won’t fill with water at the proper temperature.

Troubleshooting a KitchenAid Electric Cooktop

KitchenAid electric cooktops range in size from four to five heating elements and come in ceramic glass or downdraft format. While operating, the electric cooktops should be straightforward in most circumstances, some possible issues such as inconsistent or inaccurate heating temperatures or markings on the cooktop might lead users to seek some troubleshooting steps and information. Attempting to resolve the problem through troubleshooting may save a call to KitchenAid for service or repair on the cooktop.

Step 1

Check the household circuit breakers or fuses if the entire KitchenAid electric cooktop will not operate. Replace or reset as needed to restore power.

Step 2

Push the associated control knob for the desired heating element on applicable models if the heating element does not seem to be heating. Press “On/Off” on models with an electric control panel first before selecting the desired heating element and temperature in order to turn on the unit.

Step 3

Press and hold “Control Lock” on electric control panel models if nothing on the control panel will function but the cooktop has power. Hold the key pad for five seconds to release the control lock function and allow the key pads to work. Repeat the same step to lock the control panel again.

Step 4

Avoid using cookware that is more than 1/2 inch more or less than the heating element surface if there is insufficient or excessive heat on the cooktop. Adjust the temperature to a warmer setting if food cooks very slowly or unevenly. Adjust the temperature to a cooler setting if food cooks or burns quickly. Always monitor food while cooking for the best results.

Step 5

Clean spills off the cooktop surface after cooktop has cooled if scratches occur from debris begin pulled across the cooktop by utensils and cookware. Wipe up sugary or acidic spills immediately with a damp sponge or cloth when the spill occurs if marks or discoloration occurs on the cooktop. Use a ceramic cooktop cleaning crème to clean the cooktop and a ceramic polishing crème to help reduce the appearance of scratches.

Step 6

Touch “Off” if the control panel lights are flashing and use a damp cloth to wipe the control panel clean. Disconnect power to the KitchenAid cooktop, wait 30 seconds and then reconnect power. Press “Off” again if the lights continue to flash and contact KitchenAid for service.

Step 7

Clean the filter on a downdraft electric cooktop if the cooking results are uneven or there is more smoking than usual. Turn off the ventilation system and lift off the vent grate and pull out the filter. Wash the filter with soapy water or run through a normal cycle in the dishwasher. Replace the filter at an angle with the top of the filter against the left side of the vent chamber. Check to make sure the filter bottom rests against the right bottom side of the vent chamber.


What to check if the KitchenAidvent hood fan is not operating

Are the controls set correctly?

Refer to the Owner’s Manual for specific information on setting the controls.

Have you reset the power?

  • Power the vent hood down by turning off the circuit breaker(s) for one (1) minute.
  • Power vent hood up by turning on the circuit breaker(s).
  • Verify the vent hood operates.


If you’re looking for help fixing your KitchenAid Range, look no further! Our comprehensive KitchenAid Range Troubleshooting guide will explain common issues, provide tips, and show you how to read your model’s error codes.


What to do if your KitchenAid oven or range is not working 
If your oven or range is not working there are a couple of things you can check.
Check the electrical supply.  Ensure the appliance is plugged into a grounded outlet with a dedicated circuit (240V receptacle for electric ranges, 120V receptacle for gas ranges and the outlet is operational. Also check to make sure the circuit breaker has not tripped or fuse has blown.
Error Code. If the appliance is showing an error code, try resetting the appliance. This will clear the error code.
Make sure the Control Lock function is turned OFF. Some ovens may be equipped with Control Lock. Look for “Control Lock” on the oven control console, then reset by, typically, pushing & holding for 3 seconds.

Reset power to the product: 
Power unit down by turning off the circuit breaker(s) for one (1) minute.
Power unit up by turning on the circuit breaker(s).
Monitor the oven/range for one (1) minute to ensure the error code does not display again.
Verify oven operation.


What to do if your KitchenAid oven or range is not working

If your oven or range is not working there are a couple of things you can check.

  • Check the electrical supply.  Ensure the appliance is plugged into a grounded outlet with a dedicated circuit (240V receptacle for electric ranges, 120V receptacle for gas ranges and the outlet is operational. Also check to make sure the circuit breaker has not tripped or fuse has blown.
  • Error Code. If the appliance is showing an error code, try resetting the appliance.  This will clear the error code.
  • Make sure the Control Lock function is turned OFF.  Some  ovens may be equipped with Control Lock. Look for “Control Lock” on the oven control console, then reset by, typically, pushing & holding for 3 seconds.  To locate the Control Lock feature for your particular model, look in the Table of Contents in your Owner’s Manual.

Reset power to the product:


  • Power unit down by turning off the circuit breaker(s) for one (1) minute.
  • Power unit up by turning on the circuit breaker(s).
  • Monitor the oven/range for one (1) minute to ensure the error code does not display again.
  • Verify oven operation.


KitchenAid Trash Compactor Will Not Operate

If you compactor will not operate or turn on, there are a few things to try before calling for service. Check the following:

Did you press “On” before pressing Start?

Some models have to be turned to the “On” position before it will operate. Press the “On” button before pressing Start (on some models). See your Owner’s Manual to determine which model you have.

Is the power supply cord unplugged or household fuse blown, or has a circuit breaker tripped?

Plug into a grounded 3 prong outlet. Replace the fuse or reset the circuit breaker. If the problem continues, call an electrician.

Is the key-knob turned all the way to Start?

Turn the key-knob (key-switch) fully to Start and release (on some models).

Compactor key start.jpg

Is the drawer completely closed?

Firmly close the drawer and start the compactor again. During compaction, certain loaded items could be forced towards the front of the door which could cause the door to open slightly. If you cannot get the door fully closed, you may need assistance from a local service provider.


My KitchenAid Compactor Door or Drawer Will Not Open

Trash compactors will normally open when the foot pedal is engaged. However if you compactor will not open, there are a couple of things to check first:

Is the ram all the way up?

The drawer will open only when the ram is fully raised. To ensure the ram is raised all the way follow the below instructions:

Models with a key-knob (or key-switch):

  • Turn the key-knob (key-switch) to Start and release.

Models with push button controls:

  • Press Off, and then press On.

Is the Solid cycle engaged?

The Solid cycle will keep the ram in the down position until it is released. This will keep the trash compacted at the best level. The drawer remains locked until you reset by lifting up the foot pedal.

Compactor Solid Pack Off.jpg

See your Owner’s Manual for specific instructions on your model.

How to Repair KitchenAid Wine Cooler

Problems are common even with the best appliances. Even the appliance of a brand like KitchenAid can also face some issues with time. A wine cooler is an essential appliance that keeps your line save and preserve for a longer time. If your wine cooler is not working properly, then here are some of the simple steps you can try on your own to cure the problem.

So here are some steps for KitchenAid Wine Cooler Repair

Cooling problem: –

  • First, check that the wine cooler is receiving proper voltage with the help of a multimeter.
  • Then make sure that the thermostat is in proper working order. If it is set on a warmer temperature, then your wine cooler may also trouble to get cooler.
  • After this check that all the vents on the cooler have a sufficient amount of space for breathing. If there are less than six inches on the rear, then cooling of the wine cooler may be impacted.
  • Lastly, the owner should check that the cooler door is closed and secured correctly.

Cooler is not turning on: –

  • First, check the entire basic electrical fault. Check cooler plugin, also check that socket have supplied in it with the help of a tester.
  • After checking all upper discussed problems, if your cooler is still facing the same problem, then don’t be late to call KitchenAid wine cooler repair support.

Water leakage problem: –

The water leaking problem will also make an impact on your wine cooler cooling. But here is a step you can check on your own. Check for an air leakage all around the condenser as well as an evaporator. These two have air leaking problems majorly.

Unwanted running noise: –

  • If your kitchenaid wine cooler is working correctly but producing unwanted sounds while running, so here are some steps to fix it.
  • Check the position of the wine cooler correctly. It should not be too close to the wall. And if it is then correct the position.
  • And if cooler is placed correctly then check the ventilation of the cooler.
  • Check that all four sides have adequate space on the sides.

KitchenAid Dishwasher Error Codes

There are a wide variety of KitchenAid dishwasher models out there with different fault codes and meanings. If the codes below don’t seem to apply to your dishwasher model you can try taking a look at the Whirlpool dishwasher error codes page, as Whirlpool owns KitchenAid, and therefore design features are often shared between the two.

Error Codes for KitchenAid HE Dishwashers:

Fault Code 1-1
Cause: A sticking relay on the circuit board has been detected by the ECB (electronic control board).
Action: You can often remedy this problem by shutting down the power to the dishwasher for a few minutes then powering it up again to ‘unstick’ the relay. If the problem persists then replacement parts maybe required (most likely the ECB).

Fault Code 1-2
Cause: Another electronic problem, this one signals that the ECB’s onboard memory is bad.
Action: As with code 1-1, turning off the dishwasher completely then cycling the power can sometimes clear this error. If the problem persists then a replacement ECB is the next step.

Fault Code 2-1
Cause: The ECB is detecting a stuck button the the control panel.
Action: Check the buttons for any damage and if any of them stuck/jammed down. If the control panel looks fine then this is probably an electronic failure of either the control panel itself or the ECB.

Fault Code 2-2
Cause: Connection between the ECB and control panel has been lost.
Action: As with error code 2-1 the problem can lie with either the ECB or the control panel. Inpect both for damage along with the wiring.

Fault Code 3-1
Cause: Thermistor/Optical water indicator (OWI) failure.
Action: Check the thermistor/OWI for damage, it might need replacing. It’s possible that the part is actually OK and it’s the wiring to blame so inspect for faults.

Fault Code 3-2
Cause: Thermistor/Optical water indicator (OWI) circuit short.
Action: Similar to code 3-1, check the Thermistor/OWI and it’s wiring for faults/damage.

Fault Code 3-3
Cause: Optical water indicator (OWI) failure
Action: Inspect the OWI for faults/damage. It may not be operating if it’s dirty/obscured so give it a clean as well. If the problem persists then a replacement OWI maybe required.

Fault Code 4-4
Cause: Circulation pump motor error.
Action: Disconnect power to the dishwasher and check for any wiring faults or damage around the circulation pump. If the wiring seems fine then a replacement circulation pump motor maybe required.

Fault Code 5-1
Cause: Door not latching securely.
Action: Check the door latch for any obstructions and ensure the dishwasher door is closing and sealing properly. If all seems ok then check the door switches wiring.

Fault Code 5-2
Cause: Door not opening properly.
Action: This is the opposite problem to fault code 5-1, but with the same likely culprit. Check the door switch is not obstructed or jammed and firmly close the dishwasher door. If the problem persists inspect the switches wiring.

Fault Code 6-1
Cause: No water entering the dishwasher basin.
Action: Check if water is entering the dishwasher or not. If it is then the ECB is at fault and giving a false reading. If it isn’t then ensure there are no problems with the dishwashers water supply, and inspect the water inlet valve for any damage/issues.

Fault Code 6-2
Cause: Electrical fault with water inlet valve.
Action: As with code 6-1, ensure there are no issues with the water supply and inlet valve. As this is an electrical issue, it may be the ECB at fault.

Fault Code 6-3
Cause: Water pump error
Action: This fault suggests the water supply is not air tight, and you may notice the dishwasher is not filling sufficiently. Check the water inlet valve to make sure it’s sealed properly and replace if damaged.

Fault Code 6-4
Cause: Float switch stuck open/not closing
Action: Inspect the float switch and make sure it can move freely with no jams or obstructions. Check the water inlet valve for any damage as it maybe overfilling the dishwasher and triggering the float switch and in turn this error code.

Fault Code 6-6
Cause: Water not being heated.
Action: Check your dishwasher during a cycle and ensure the water is hot. If the water is cold possible culprits are the thermistor, water heater or ECB.

Fault Code 7-1
Cause: Heating element failure.
Action: The main symptom of this will be no hot water during a cycle. Check the heating element and it’s wiring for any problems. If they check out then it’s likely that the ECB is at fault.

Fault Code 7-2
Cause: Heating element will not switch off.
Action: The opposite issue to fault code 7-1. Probably an issue with the ECB but you can often fix this issue by turning off the dishwasher’s power supply for a few minutes then cycling the power to clear the error.

Fault Code 8-1
Cause: Dishwasher not draining.
Action: There’s probably water in the basin of the dishwasher, so remove this then inspect the filter and drain for any blockages. If the problem persists then disconnect the water supply and check there are no other drainage obstructions.

Fault Code 8-2
Cause: Electrical fauly detected with the drain pump.
Action: Disconnect your dishwasher from both the power and water supply then inspect the drain pump and it’s wiring. If the problem persists then a replacement drain pump may be required.

Fault Code 9-1
Cause: Electric issue with the diverter.
Action: The diverter is a part that directs water through the dishwashers spray arms. Check the diverter and its wiring for any faults or damage.

Fault Code 9-2
Cause: Diverter stuck in on position.
Action: Open up the sump and check the diverter disk for any damage. You can access the sump by removing the bottom dish rack and spray arm.

Fault Code 9-3
Cause: Diverter disk damaged or missing.
Action: Follow the same steps as fault code 9-3. Replace the diverter disk if it’s damaged or indeed missing.

Fault Code 9-4
Cause: Fault with bottom spray arm.
Action: Make sure there aren’t any obstructions and that the spray arm can spin around freely. If it seems ok then check the wiring to the motor’s spray arm for any faults. If the problem persists you may need a replacement spray arm motor.

Fault Code 10-1
Cause: Dispenser Fault.
Action: This is most likely another electrical fault, so disconnect the dishwashers power supply then remove the outer door panel. Now check the detergent dispenser’s wiring for any faults. If it seems ok, replace the detergent dispenser.

Fault Code 10-2
Cause: Vent wax motor fault
Action: After disconnecting your dishwasher from the power supply, inspect the wiring in the ventwax motor circuit for any faults. If no problems are detected then the vax wax motor may need replacing.

Fault Code 10-3
Cause: Drying fan problem (probably and electrical fault)
Action: With the power disconnected check the wiring to the drying fan for any faults, and replace the drying fan if required.

Alternative Error Codes for KitchenAid Dishwashers:

CLEAN light flashes six times
Cause: This a is generic warning telling you that the dishwasher has detected a general problem (useful right?!). Action: This error can occasionally pop up even when your dishwasher appears to be fine. You can clear the error from appearing by disconnecting the power for a few minutes then reconnecting it. If the error code persists there may well be an undiagnosed problem somewhere.

CLEAN light flashes continuously
Cause: A heating fault has been detected, no hot water.


If you’re looking for help fixing your KitchenAid Refrigerator, look no further! Our comprehensive KitchenAid Refrigerator error code guide will explain common issues, provide tips, and show you how to read your model’s error codes.


PROBLEM: FZ Sensor Error
FIX: The sensor is read as open or shorted. Check the wiring connections.

PROBLEM: R Sensor Error.
FIX: The sensor is read as open or shorted. Check the wiring connections.

PROBLEM: FZ DEF Sensor Error.
FIX: The sensor is read as open or shorted. Check the wiring connections.

PROBLEM: R DEF Sensor Error.
FIX: The sensor is read as open or shorted. Check the wiring connections.

PROBLEM: Ambient Sensor Error.
FIX: The sensor is read as open or shorted. Check the wiring connections.

PROBLEM: Flex Sensor Error.
FIX: The sensor is read as open or shorted. Check the wiring connections.

PROBLEM: Humidity Sensor Error.
FIX: The Humidity sensor is read as open or shorted. Check the wiring connections.

PROBLEM: IM Sensor Error.
FIX: The sensor is read as open or shorted. Check the wiring connections.

PROBLEM: ICE RM Sensor Error.
FIX: The sensor is read as open or shorted. Check the wiring connections.

PROBLEM: FZ Fan Error.
FIX: The freezer fan motor is read as not connected or the fan has stopped. Check the wiring connections.

PROBLEM: R Fan Error.
FIX: The Ref fan motor is read as not connected or the fan has stopped. Check the wiring connections.

PROBLEM: C Fan Error.
FIX: The Comp. fan motor is read as not connected or the fan has stopped. Check the wiring connections.

PROBLEM: FZ Def Function Error.
FIX: The freezer defrost heater is read as open or the heater has been heating continuously for more then 80 mins.

PROBLEM: R Def Function Error.
FIX: The refrigerator defrost heater is read as open or the heater has been heating continuously for more then 80 mins.

PROBLEM: IM Function Error.
FIX: The ice maker release heater reads as open circuit.

Kitchen Aid front loading automatic washer fault codes

Fault code Description
FH No water detected entering machine or pressure switch trip not detected
F02 Long drain
F05 Water temperature sensor error
F06 Drive motor tachometer error
F07 Motor control unit error
F09 Overflow condition
F10 Motor control unit (MCU) heat sink thermal trip
F11 Serial communication error
F13 Dispenser circuit error
F14 EEPROM error
F15 Motor control unit (MCU) error
F21 or F22 CCU / Touchpad / LED assembly error
FdU Door unlock error
FdL Door lock error
Sud Suds lock (Overdose of detergent detected during the wash cycle)

KitchenAid Dryer Controller Fault Codes

Fault Code Condition/Description Resolution
PF Power failure PF flashes to indicate that a power failure occurred while the dryer was running. Press Start to continue the cycle, or press Pause/Cancel to clear the display.
E1 Temperature sensor open E1 flashes in the numeric display when the temperature sensing circuit is open. Replace temperature sensor if faulty.
E2 Temperature sensor shorted E2 flashes in the numeric display when the temperature sensing circuit is shorted. Replace temperature sensor if faulty.
E3 Blower rotation failure If during a cycle the blower rotational speed drops below 500 rpms, all outputs will be turned off and error code E3 will be displayed.
E4 Tumbler rotation failure If during a cycle the tumbler rotational speed drops to 0, all outputs will be turned off and error code E4 will be displayed.
E5 Dry rack sensor If during a Dry Rack cycle the signal is lost, all outputs are turned off and E5 is displayed.
E6 Exhaust high limit fault If the exhaust temperature goes above 87.7�C (190�F) all outputs will turn off and E6 will be displayed.


KitchenAid induction cooktop error codes

Fault Code Condition/Description Resolution
F0 Internal electronic control board failure Disconnect electrical power to the cooktop. Wait 1 minute and then restore electrical power to reset the electronic control boards in the cooktop. If the code returns after restoring electrical power, call a service technician to diagnose and repair the cooktop.
F2 The surface cooking area is too hot and has turned off Remove the pans from the surface cooking area. The F2 code disappears when the surface cooking area cools. If the F2 code reappears when you turn the cooktop on, a sensor or internal control board is defective. Call a service technician to diagnose and repair the cooktop.
F4 Cookware is too close to the control panel Remove the cookware that is too large or off-center and allow the cooktop surface and control panel to cool. If the code returns repeatedly, the cooling fan or display control board has failed. Call a service technician to examine and repair the cooktop.
F8 The surface cooking area has been on for too long The surface cooking area automatic shutoff was activated. Turn off the surface cooking area.
c1 The power voltage is too low Turn off the cooktop. Unplug the cooktop for 1 minute, then plug it back in. If the code returns, have an electrician check the electrical power supply for the cooktop. If the power supply is okay, call a service technician to examine and repair the cooktop.
c2/c3 The surface cooking area has overheated. The surface cooking area automatic shutoff was activated. Wait 5 minutes for the cooking area to cool and then turn the cooktop back on. If the cooking area continues to overheat, call a service technician to examine and repair the cooktop.
E Key panel error Remove any objects on the touch keys. Thoroughly wipe off the key panel. Check the key panel operation. If the code returns or the key panel fails to operate properly, call a service technician to examine and repair the cooktop

Kitchen Aid Range / Stove / Oven Fault Codes

Failure Code Fault Code Description Solution
4 Digit Failure Codes (for 2 digit codes see below)
F1 – E0 EEPROM communication error 1. Disconnect power for at least 30 seconds.
2. Re-apply power and observe for at least one minute.
3. If code re-appears, replace control board (also called ERC or clock).

Note: Applies to all F1-E… codes except F1-E3.

F1 – E1 EEPROM checksum error
F1 – E2 UL A/D error(s)
F1 – E4 Model ID error
F1 – E5 Calibration shifted
F1 – E6 Latch signal mismatch error
F1 – E9 Stack overflow
F1 – E3 Wiring harness cavity size does not match previously stored value The “Cavity Size Select” jumpers in the wiring harness indicate a cavity size different from that which the control was previously configured for. Check the jumpers in the harness to make sure they agree with the actual oven size.
F2 – E0 Shorted keypad (also called touch pad) 1. Check keypad connector for firm connection (keypad connects to control board).
2. Press CANCEL. If error code returns after 60 seconds, replace keypad (also called touch pad or membrane switch). Some models incorporate keypad in to control board as one unit. In this case, replace control board (also called ERC or clock).
F2 – E1 Keypad cable unplugged
F2 – E5 Cancel key drive line open
F2 – E6 Cancel key drive line open
F3 – E0 Oven temperature sensor (RTD) opened (upper oven, if double oven) Replace Oven temperature sensor (RTD)

Note: Applies to all F3-E… codes.

F3 – E1 Oven temperature sensor (RTD) shorted (upper oven, if double oven)
F3 – E2 Oven temperature is too high (Cook mode)
F3 – E3 Oven temperature is too high (Clean mode)
F3 – E4 Oven temperature sensor (RTD) opened (lower oven, if double oven)
F3 – E5 Oven temperature sensor (RTD) shorted (lower oven, if double oven)
F3 – E6 Warming drawer sensor open
F3 – E7 Warming drawer sensor shorted
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F4 – E1 Meat probe malfunction – shorted Problem could be with the probe, the receptacle, or probe circuit. Check probe. Look for pinched wire. Look for condensation or contamination on probe receptacle. Replace probe if all else checks out ok.
F5 – E0 Door switches do not agree (condition exists when door switch is closed indicating an open door, and latch switch is closed indicating a locked door) 1. If door latched:

  1. Disconnect power from unit.
  2. Check wires and connectors from control to door switch, then from door switch to control. If no damage to wires and all connectors okay, proceed to step C.
  3. Replace door switch.
  4. Re-apply power.
  5. Press and hold any key down for 1 minute to clear F5 failure code from memory. F2 will appear. Press CANCEL and observe for 1 minute to ensure operation is correct.

2. If door not latched:

  1. Disconnect power from unit.
  2. Check wires and connectors from control to latch switch, then from latch switch to control. If no damage to wires and all connectors okay, proceed to step C.
  3. Repeat steps A and B for door switch.

3. Measure door switch (door open = switch open small low voltage terminals). Replace switch if defective.
4. Measure latch switch (unlatch = switch open, CAUTION – oven light contacts are closed). Replace switch if defective.
5. If corrections are made in any step, reconnect power to control. Press and hold any key for 1 minute to clear R failure code from memory. F2 will appear. Press CANCEL and observe for 1 minute to ensure operation is correct.
6. If failure remains, disconnect power and replace control.

Note: Applies to all F5-E… codes.

F5 – E1 Self clean latch will not lock
F5 – E2 Latch during CLEAN error
F5 – E5 Self clean temperature not reached within 45 minutes.
F5 – E6 Door is open, but latch is locked
F5 – E7 Self clean latch will not unlock
F6 – E0 Return line not connected If switch pulse return line is not connected, electronic control will display F6 within 60 seconds after power up. Replace control.
F7 – E1 Common switch wire is defective Common wire (+5VDC) to latch switch, and to door switch is shorted to chassis ground or neutral. A double oven will have two of each switch and one common wire.
1. Check connections at control and at the latch switch and door switch.
2. If all connections are good, then check the individual switches as outlined for the F5 failure.
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2 Digit Failure Codes
F0 Board failure Replace control board (also called ERC or clock).
F1 Board failure Replace control board (also called ERC or clock).
F2 Oven temperature is too high 1. Look for welded relay contacts on bake or broil relays. If this happens, replace oven control (also called clock or ERC).
2. For SELF CLEAN models: check door lock operation.
3. Look for a high resistance connection or any other cause of high resistance in the oven temperature sensor circuit. Check sensor, sensor harness and sensor harness connection at sensor and oven control. Replace sensor if found defective.

Remember: Oven control (ERC) measures resistance of sensor circuit, not actual oven temperature.

F3 Oven temperature sensor (RTD) open Replace Oven temperature sensor (RTD)
F4 Oven temperature sensor (RTD) shorted Replace Oven temperature sensor (RTD)
F5 Board failure Replace control board (also called ERC or clock).
F7 Function key stuck on ERC Replace control board (also called ERC or clock).
F8 Board failure Replace control board (also called ERC or clock).
F9 Oven door lock failure Check wiring to door lock switch (the wire harness may be connected wrong). Check for stuck lock switch.
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