Whirlpool Appliance Repair
whirlpool appliance repair

Whirlpool appliances do things the way you do them

Your intuition for how to get things done is something they value. Every machine is designed to help you manage your home precisely the way you want – easier, faster and smarter. In many Whirlpool appliances, remarkable sense and adapt technology responds to the needs of your clothes, your meals and your foods. By adapting to each situation, intuitive sensors make key refinements – precisely adjusting water levels for the best clean possible or measuring moisture content for better baking. So your fabrics look newer longer, meals cook more evenly, and foods stay cool and flavorful.

In spite of all of these advantages, even such brilliant appliances like Whirlpool may experience a malfunction, which in turn will require Whirlpool appliance repair services.

My Appliance Repair Houston has been providing Whirlpool appliance repair in any Houston area and nearby towns for many years. Our repair specialists have tons of experience in Whirlpool appliance repair and are always on guard to help any appliance, which requires some repair. They have any tool and technology to deal with any trouble with Whirlpool appliance. So, if you need any Whirlpool appliance repair in the Houston area, we’ve got you covered. From diagnostics to repair, from giving advice to periodic maintenance service. Here are the main types of Whirlpool appliance repair we are mainly focused on:
• Refrigerator
• Ranges
• Microwaves
• Washers
• Dryers
• Dishwashers
• Repair services of other kinds of appliance etc.

If you feel that something is not OK with your Whirlpool appliances and need repair, just schedule a service appointment and get your broken appliance repaired at the same day, no strings attached. Our magic technicians are equipped with all kinds of appliance parts, replacement details, tools and desire to assist you. You will just need to observe how they manage your Whirlpool appliance repair, with ease. So if your washer, dryer or fridge requires some attention, we’ll make sure it’s repaired within minutes after our specialists’ arrival. Moreover, even after repair, our trained engineers will explain in detail how you need to care about your appliance in order to maintain your Whirlpool appliance in its best shape for as long as possible. Your kitchen will say “thank you!” We promise.

We really care about our clients, especially in Houston, so our main goal is to keep your home and family out of repair trouble.

If you trust My Appliance Repair Houston Company, you won’t be disappointed

Please make sure that your Whirlpool microwave, a range or a dishwasher are taken care of – call for us and we’ll make it happen.

In addition to the same-day repair, our Houston appliance repair service also provides other advantages:

• Free Whirlpool appliance repair estimates;
• Free diagnostic in case of a complete repair by our Houston experts;
• A well-trained and licensed repair specialist who will quickly diagnose and fix any Whirlpool repair issue, as well as give an expert advice on maintenance of your repaired appliance.
• Guarantee on all Whirlpool appliance repairs and factory replacement parts;
• Quick and affordable Whirlpool appliance repair within the first visit to any Houston or nearby area;
• A flexible service schedule at the most convenient time for you;
• A clean house after all the repair works are finished;
• A guaranteed customer satisfaction.

Whirlpool refrigerator problems

Whirlpool is a generally well-trusted name in appliances, and for a good reason. They’ve been in business since 1911, making washing machines. By 1955 they had expanded into virtually every household appliance, including refrigerators, and have been widely regarded as one of the best brands in household appliances for nearly seventy years. According to USNews, the Whirlpool Bottom-Freezer Refrigerator was the #3 rated refrigerator among those evaluated.

Of course, just because a refrigerator works well most of the time doesn’t mean that it works well all of the time. All appliances will break down from time to time, and there are certain areas where Whirlpool fridges have their issues. Below are some of the most common problems with your Whirlpool refrigerators.

Whirlpool Refrigerator Is Not Cooling

This could be any one of several parts and not an issue that you’d want to tackle on your own. Some of the possible culprits could be:

  • The condenser coils are dirty. These are located under the fridge, and they dissipate the heat as refrigerant passes through them. If they’re dirty, they won’t dissipate the heat as well. The good news is that these can be cleaned without being replaced.
  • The condenser fan motor is out. This pulls air in over the condenser coils and over the compressor. To repair this, the service person will have to check to ensure that nothing is obstructing the fan. If something is, it can be removed. If not, it may need to be replaced.
  • The evaporator fan motor is out. This fan draws air over the evaporator and distributes it through the Whirlpool fridge. (Some Whirlpool fridges have more than one evaporator fan.) If this fan isn’t working, cold air will not circulate through the refrigerator. A good sign that this is the problem is if the freezer is still getting cold, but the fridge is not. The evaporator fan motor will most likely need to be replaced.
  • The thermostat isn’t working. Just like the thermostat in your home that runs your heating and air conditioning, this thermostat monitors the temperature in the fridge and tells it when too cool. If it fails, it will not engage the refrigerant system and will need to be replaced.
  • The temperature control board is down. This board provides power to the compressor and fan motors. This rarely breaks, so the serviceperson will probably check other parts first.
  • The start capacitor is bad. If this isn’t working, the compressor may not startup, so the fridge will not cool.
  • The start relay is defective. If the start relay doesn’t work, the compressor may run off and on, giving you the impression that the fridge is struggling. This causes some Whirlpool refrigerator owners not to call the service person when it happens because they hope the fridge will get better on its own. But it needs to be replaced.
  • The compressor itself is faulty. This is the pump that pushes the refrigerant through the evaporator and coils. This is a less common problem, so the serviceperson will probably check other parts first.

The Whirlpool Water Dispenser Doesn’t Work

There are several reasons your Whirlpool water dispenser isn’t working. Let’s look at some of them.

  • The water inlet valve isn’t opening. This is probably the most common reason for the water dispenser not to work. This could be because the water pressure isn’t high enough (there may also be a water pressure issue from the housing supply), or it could be because the valve is defective. The valve needs at least 20psi. If you have enough pressure, then replace the valve.
  • The dispenser switch is faulty. If this is the case, the serviceperson will use a multimeter to test the switch, and if it’s not working, it will be replaced.
  • The door switch isn’t working. If the door to the fridge is open, the water and ice dispenser don’t work. If the door switch doesn’t recognize that the door is closed, the switch is probably faulty and will need to be replaced.
  • The water filter is clogged. The water filter should be replaced every six months. This can be done by the homeowner and doesn’t require a service person.

The Whirlpool Refrigerator is Not Defrosting

Generally, a Whirlpool fridge will defrost, but if it doesn’t, it may be one of these things:

  • The defrost heater isn’t working. This turns on periodically to melt the frost off the evaporator coils. It is one of the most common reasons a fridge won’t defrost.
  • The defrost thermostat is broken. This thermostat measures the evaporator coils’ temperature, and when the coils get too cold, the thermostat will turn on the defrost heater. If the thermostat is broken, the heater won’t come on, and the coils won’t defrost.
  • The defrost control board is bad. This board controls when to run the defrost cycle, and if it isn’t working, then the fridge won’t defrost. This is less common than the defrost heater or the defrost thermostat, and those should be checked first by the serviceperson.
  • The defrost timer is out. This timer is set to defrost the evaporator coils automatically, and if it isn’t working, then all the burden is put on the defrost thermostat.

The Whirlpool Fridge is Making a Lot of Noise

If your fridge is making a lot of noise, you know that it’s a problem. Here’s are a few of the possibilities:

  • A fan blade is breaking or obstructed. The fan blade is probably the number one reason why a fridge makes a lot of noise. It will make more noise when the doors are opened. It could be either the evaporator fan blade or the condenser fan, and the serviceperson can check to see if the fan is rubbing against something or is obstructed.
  • The evaporator fan motor is failing (or has failed). If this happens, there will be a lot of noise, and the noise will increase when you open the Whirlpool fridge door. This will need to be replaced.
  • The condenser fan motor is defective. This noise will come from the backside of the fridge, near the bottom. The serviceperson can access it by pulling the refrigerator away from the wall and opening a panel.
  • The water inlet valve is clogged. If the Whirlpool fridge is loud when the ice maker is running, it could be because of mineral deposits in the water inlet valve. This will need to be replaced—it cannot be disassembled.
  • The compressor is damaged. A compressor can be loud for a long time before the fridge fails to work, but it is a sign that the fridge will break. The compressor will need to be replaced eventually, before or after it fails.

Whirlpool Range/Stove/Oven problems

If you’re looking for help fixing your Whirlpool Range, look no further! Our comprehensive Whirlpool Range Troubleshooting guide will explain common issues, provide tips, and show you how to read your model’s error codes.

 

Nothing Works 
If your entire range won’t turn on, check for a power issue. Make sure the range’s power cord is plugged into an operational, grounded outlet. You can test the outlet by plugging a small appliance like a lamp into it and seeing if it turns on. If the outlet doesn’t have power, check your home’s circuit breaker or fuse box and reset the breaker or replace a blown fuse as necessary. Consult an electrician if the range still won’t turn on.

Stovetop Doesn’t Work 
If the cooktop portion of your range won’t operate, ensure that you’ve set the control knob properly. You must push the knob in to turn it to a setting. If your model has a control panel instead of knob, ensure that you’ve touched the display area on the panel to select one of the burners before choosing a function. For models with ceramic glass cooktops, verify that the Control Lockout feature hasn’t been set. This setting locks all of the controls so the cooktop won’t operate. Usually, the control panel will indicate that the setting is engaged with “LOCKED” on the display. Consult your owner’s manual to determine what pads need to be pressed to unlock the controls.

Oven Doesn’t Work 
When your range’s oven won’t operate, start your troubleshooting by verifying that the electronic oven control is set properly. Check your owner’s manual to determine the proper way to set your model’s controls when using the oven. Next, make sure that the range’s Delay Start feature, which programs the oven to turn on at a future time, hasn’t been activated. The oven also won’t operate if the Control Lockout feature has been set; check your owner’s manual to see how to unlock the controls if necessary.

Makes Strange Noises 
You may near some noises that cause concern when your range is in operation. They are often normal operating sounds. If your range features a convection oven, you may hear a humming sound when cooking at high power. The sound should quiet or go away completely when you turn down the power. With a ceramic glass cooktop, you may hear a whirring sound during use. The cooktop has a fan that runs at various speeds to keep the electronics at a controlled temperature. It may continue to run after the cooktop is turned off, if the temperature is very high.

Whirlpool Microwave problems

A Whirlpool microwave not heating isn’t always a severe issue because a few inadvertent errors could prevent the appliance from working. However, if the cause is a broken part, you must detect the faulty component and repair or replace it. So, why is your Whirlpool microwave not heating?

Here’s why your Whirlpool microwave is not heating:

  • There’s an electrical problem.
  • The user settings are wrong.
  • A door switch is not working.
  • Cooling or ventilation is poor.
  • A fuse or thermostat is blown.
  • The diode or capacitor is bad.
  • The transformer is burned out.
  • The control board is defective.
  • The magnetron is not working.

These problems are not listed in any order, nor is any issue statistically likelier than the rest. So, you have to inspect one component at a time based on your suspicions and accordingly fix the problem. Keep reading to investigate all the reasons for a Whirlpool microwave not heating.

There’s an Electrical Problem

Many household Whirlpool microwaves require a 120V power source with up to 20A current. If the cord is damaged to the extent that it affects the voltage or reduces the amperage, it may prevent the microwave from heating, albeit the low-power display might work.

Some models require a 240V circuit, so the voltage and amperage change accordingly. Also, a few Whirlpool microwaves, like the over the range models, demand a dedicated circuit. Thus, an issue related to the power supply, whether voltage or amperage, can affect the heating function.

Like all microwaves, Whirlpool’s models have high-voltage capacitors, diodes, and transformers, all of which fire up the magnetron. A substantial voltage or amperage fluctuation could prevent the magnetron from emitting the microwaves necessary to induce the required heating effect.

A Whirlpool microwave’s terminal block or noise filter board could also be a problem, especially if there’s no voltage or amperage issue in the circuit.

Whirlpool microwaves that are over the range or hood combo models have a noise filter board with electrical terminals, a fuse, etc. If this board is broken, your microwave won’t work. In some cases, the microwave may turn on but not heat. You’ll have to inspect this board, too.

Some Whirlpool microwaves have a conventional terminal block with three terminals with two live ones. If this block is broken or any live terminal is burnt, corroded, etc., then the connection won’t work as it should. Such an issue is likely in Whirlpool microwaves running on 240V.

If a 120V microwave has a dead live wire terminal, you won’t have a working display or control panel. However, a 240V microwave has 2 x 120V legs, so one live wire terminal working will still power the display, but not the magnetron to emit microwaves and the oven to heat as a result.

How To Fix

You can inspect the power cord for visible signs of damage, such as burns, tears, cracks, etc. A damaged power cord needs to be replaced. If the power cord looks alright, measure the voltage at the wall receptacle and the terminals inside your Whirlpool microwave.

If you find low voltage at the wall outlet, you must consult an electrician because the circuit isn’t alright. If the receptacle has the required voltage, you can test the same at the legs on the terminal block or noise filter board of your Whirlpool microwave oven.

If there’s no problem with the receptacle and power cord, then you must test the terminals in the microwave. This part may be a block or a noise filter board with three terminals, subject to the microwave model. You must replace a broken terminal block or noise filter board.

The User Settings Are Wrong

A Whirlpool microwave not heating could be due to a few user settings or modes, including:

  • Demo mode
  • Low power
  • Clock / timer

If any operation that was programmed is still running, your Whirlpool microwave may not run. These issues could be inadvertent, so you have to review your settings and the modes you have selected.

How To Fix

Check if you have selected the microwave timer to cook. Sometimes, users rely on the clock or timer, which isn’t the cooking mode. The clock shows standard time, not a cooking duration. And it doesn’t regulate the microwave’s heating.

Similarly, your Whirlpool microwave may be in demo mode. You have to turn this off for the microwave to heat up. The specific process depends on the model.

Here are the steps to turn off demo mode on some over the range Whirlpool microwaves:

  1. Keep the microwave plugged in and powered.
  2. Open the door, press 3 on the keypad, and hold it for 5 seconds.
  3. Once you see the ‘d’ icon flash on display, press start in 5 seconds.
  4. If the demo mode is on, it will be turned off, and you’ll see ‘dOff’ on display.
  5. If the demo mode is off, you’ll see ‘dOn’ on display, so repeat the steps to revert.

Some Whirlpool microwaves display the feature as Store Demo Mode, which is the same. Also, a few models provide access to this mode through the Clock button. So, you open the door and press the button a number of times until you see ‘Demo’ on the display panel and press start.

If the clock and demo modes aren’t a problem, you should check the power level. The power level is essentially a cooking program for your Whirlpool microwave. Many models have a power level down to 0%, which means your microwave won’t heat.

Press the Power pad after you set the microwave to heat to check the level. If the power level is not what you want, increase it to the desired percentage. You can change the heating power in 10% increments or decrements.

A Door Switch Is Not Working

Whirlpool microwaves won’t heat if the door is not completely closed. An open or improperly sealed door won’t activate the switches inside the microwave, and the magnetron won’t work. Always inspect the door and ensure it is closed and sealed. If it is, then inspect the door switches.

How To Fix

Some Whirlpool microwaves have a packaging spacer attached to the door. You should remove this and close the door completely. If you have an old microwave, check the trim and if the door is perfectly aligned. A misaligned door won’t close properly.

You may also have faulty latches. The latches are mechanical parts, including the springs. These fixtures aren’t the switches. The switches are inside the microwave, behind the user interface or control panel that you access.

Most Whirlpool microwaves have 2 or more door switches. You must test the continuity of these switches to know if they are working. If any switch is defective, you must replace it.

Cooling or Ventilation Is Poor

Whirlpool microwaves require adequate ventilation. The electronic components should also be cool for the appliance to function properly. The ventilation is facilitated by the blower, while the cooling fan takes care of the control board and other electronic components.

If your Whirlpool microwave doesn’t have sufficient ventilation and cooling, it may not heat and can shut abruptly. You may also have a blown fuse or tripped thermoprotector. This problem is more prevalent for countertop microwaves because the hood combo models work differently.

How To Fix

Here are the inspections and standard remedies for cooling and ventilation issues:

  • Ensure your Whirlpool microwave is on a steady and level countertop or surface.
  • Provide around 30 cm (~12 inches) of space above a countertop Whirlpool microwave.
  • Keep some space on all sides of the microwave, including the space behind and under.
  • Check if the cooling fan for the electronic control board is working or if its motor is bad.
  • Replace a bad cooling fan motor if it is broken or check the thermoprotector for this part.
  • Get a new thermoprotector for the cooling fan if it is blown and doesn’t have continuity.
  • Inspect the line and thermal fuses, along with the other thermoprotectors, if any is blown.

A Fuse or Thermostat Is Blown

Whirlpool microwaves have several fuses and thermistors or thermostats, including:

  • Line fuse
  • Thermal fuse
  • Cooling fan fuse
  • Hood fan thermistor
  • Cavity thermostat
  • Forced convection thermistor
  • Magnetron hi-limit thermostat

Every blown fuse or broken thermistor disables the associated component, hence function. So, you have to inspect each of these fuses based on your preliminary suspicions and findings. If one of the fuses, thermistors, or thermostats has failed, you have to replace it.

How To Fix

You have to test all these fuses or thermistors for continuity. You can also check some of these thermostats for resistance. However, you must disassemble the Whirlpool microwave to access these parts. Refer to your manual or schematics to locate the fuses, thermistors, or thermostats.

Here are the tests you need to conduct:

  • Unplug the Whirlpool microwave and take it apart.
  • Don’t access the capacitor unless you discharge it safely.
  • Remove the wires from the terminals of all the fuses or thermistors.
  • Use a multimeter to test every fuse or thermostat for continuity.
  • A working fuse or thermistor should pass the continuity test.
  • Also, you can perform a resistance test for some of the thermistors.
  • A hood fan thermistor should read around 10K ohms at room temperature.
  • A forced convection thermistor should have around 17K ohms of resistance.

The Diode or Capacitor Is Bad

All Whirlpool microwaves have a high-voltage diode and capacitor, whether it is a countertop or an over the range model. If either the diode or the capacitor fails, your microwave won’t heat. I don’t recommend testing these components unless you have insulated pliers, screwdrivers, etc.

You should also check these components only after you have tested the parts I have discussed until now. If you notice a burnt component inside a Whirlpool microwave after you take it apart, that should be the first part to inspect.

How To Fix

Here’s how must approach testing and fixing a diode or capacitor in a Whirlpool microwave:

  • Unplug the Whirlpool microwave and let the capacitor discharge overnight.
  • Otherwise, you must use a resistor or insulated pliers to discharge the capacitor.
  • Exercise caution if you use insulated screwdrivers to discharge, as there’ll be a spark.
  • Don’t access the diode or capacitor before you discharge the latter to avert a shock.
  • If you want to test only the diode, take its wires off the terminals using insulated pliers.
  • Use a multimeter to test the diode for continuity and replace it if it fails the test.
  • Similarly, test the capacitor’s continuity and if it has a short to decide whether it is bad.
  • Ideally, you should remove the capacitor from the microwave before testing its continuity.
  • To test for a short, use your multimeter probes on a terminal and the capacitor’s chassis.

The Transformer Is Burned Out

A burned out transformer won’t let your Whirlpool microwave heat. So, you have to inspect the transformer for a fault. A visual inspection can help if there are signs of charring or burned parts. Otherwise, you have to inspect the continuity of all the windings on the microwave transformer.

How To Fix

  1. Unplug the microwave and remove the housing and panels to take it apart.
  2. Locate the transformer and remove the wires from its terminals.
  3. Unscrew the mounting or securing plate to take out the transformer.
  4. Get a multimeter to test the resistance of all three windings.
  5. The primary winding should have around 0.5 ohms of resistance.
  6. The secondary winding should read approximately 120 ohms.
  7. The filament winding should have ~0 ohms of resistance.
  8. Also, test the resistance of the windings to the grounding.
  9. The primary winding to grounding should read infinite resistance.
  10. Likewise, the filament winding to grounding should be an open loop.
  11. If the windings don’t have continuity or resistance, the transformer is burned out.
  12. Also, if any windings and grounding have continuity, the transformer is bad.

The Control Board Is Defective

A defective control board can be the cause of your Whirlpool microwave not heating. Otherwise, you have a bad magnetron. You can inspect both, but there isn’t a simple electrical test to check if a control board is fine. You can look for burnt or charred signs to suspect the control board.

How To Fix

Generally, Whirlpool microwave control boards are beyond repair. So, you need a replacement. I recommend checking everything else, including the wirings and harnesses or connectors. If you find nothing wrong in the unit, the control board is probably the culprit, and you need a new one.

The Magnetron Is Not Working

The magnetron in Whirlpool microwaves is unlikely to fail without a severe triggering factor. Yet, you may have a magnetron that is no longer working. You can suspect power surges or excess energy reflected to the magnetron. Nonetheless, you cannot repair or fix a bad magnetron.

How To Fix

Test the magnetron’s continuity and resistance. Here are the normal readings:

  • The two terminals of the magnetron should have continuity after removing the wires.
  • The resistance between the two terminals of the magnetron should be less than 1 ohm.
  • If the terminals don’t have continuity or the expected resistance, replace the magnetron.
  • Either terminal should not have any continuity with the chassis or the magnetron’s case.
  • If the terminal and case have continuity or nominal resistance, replace the magnetron.

Whirlpool Washer Problems

Here are seven of the most common problems on a Whirlpool washing machine and potential fixes for them.

1. Washer Making Unusual Noises

Problem: The washer is making loud noises.

  • If the noise is a loud thumping, the load is probably unbalanced. Stop the cycle, and redistribute the wet laundry. You might need to remove some pieces if the washer was overloaded.
  • If there is a clanging noise, the washer is not leveled or grounded on the floor. This should be corrected immediately to prevent additional damage.
  • A high-pitched whine means you will need to do a bit of exploring inside the washer. Find a repair manual or diagram of the internal workings of the washer on the Whirlpool site. Remove the outer housing of the washer, and check the nut that holds the pulley in place. You might need to simply tighten the nut. If that does not work, the bearings will need to be replaced.

2. Washer Won’t Start

Problem: The start button on the control panel is not working, but the rest of the lights are coming on.

  • Remove the control panel to diagnose the problem. To help you remove the control panel, consult your washer repair manual.
  • Check for any loose or broken pieces. Sometimes a small piece of plastic will break off behind the start button and prevent it from working.
  • Check all the wiring with a voltage meter. Unfortunately, if the timer/main controller/CCU has failed, the entire control panel will have to be replaced.

3. Washer Lid Won’t Lock

Problem: The washer lid locks but then unlocks, so the cycle won’t begin.

  • The lid latch/switch won’t engage if it is dirty and is not making good contact to signal the washer to begin a cycle. Dip a cotton swab in isopropyl rubbing alcohol. Clean all contact areas on the lid and the washer.
  • Try unplugging to reset your Whirlpool washing machine. Plug the washer back in, and see whether the problem resolves.
  • If the door sounds like it is engaging but doesn’t, it is time to run a diagnostic test on your Whirlpool washer. There might be a larger problem. Here’s how to run the test:
  • Put the machine in standby mode by plugging it in with all indicators off—or with only the Clothes Clean or Done indicator on. Select any one button except POWER, START, or STOP. Then, follow the steps below, using the same button.
  • Press/hold for 3 seconds.
  • Release for 3 seconds.
  • Press/hold for 3 seconds.
  • Release for 3 seconds.
  • Press/hold for 3 seconds.
  • Release.
  • All indicators on the console will be lit for 5 seconds with 88 showing in the Estimated Time Remaining two-digit display to indicate that the diagnostic mode has been entered successfully. The program then checks for saved fault codes. After the diagnostic test, you can compare the error code displayed to determine necessary repairs.
  • If indicators do not display as described, the press/hold and release procedure might not have been performed within the time frame necessary for successful entry. Repeat the procedure, and use a different button to ensure this was not the problem.

4. LD Error Code Appears

Problem: The LD error code appears during the spin cycle.

  • The “LD” error code refers to long drain. The washer stops because it is taking too long to drain out the water. This is usually caused by a clog in the drain line or something obstructing the pump.
  • Clean out any lint or obstruction (e.g., a coin or small button) that is clogging the pump filter.
  • Turn off the water connections. Unhook the drain line from the back of the washer (keep a bucket handy to catch spills). Use a long brush or forceful stream of water to clean the line.
  • If these steps don’t solve the problem, the washer’s water pump might need to be replaced.

5. Washer Leaves Deposits on Dark Clothes

Problem: The washer leaves white deposits on clothes even with different detergents.

  • If the deposits only occur in the winter months, the problem might be that a powdered detergent is not dissolving completely in the exceptionally cold water. Switch to a warm water temperature cycle.
  • If the deposits occur frequently, it’s time to clean your washer. One of the downsides of high-efficiency washers versus standard washers is there isn’t a huge amount of water to flush away detergent and soil residue that clings to the washer. Think of it as the soap scum that can accumulate in the shower. You must clean the washer to get rid of the accumulation that is redepositing on your laundry.

6. Washer Has a Burned Plastic Odor

Problem: The washer emits an odor of burning plastic or rubber.

  • A burning odor cannot be ignored. Unplug the washer, and open up the outer housing.
  • Look for any discoloration. It is quite possible that the problem is the rubber drive belt. If the belt slips, stretches, or breaks, it can cause friction and a burning smell—most likely a burning “rubber” smell. The belt should be replaced.
  • If the belt looks fine, there is probably an electrical problem with the motor, transmission, or control panel. This is a much more extensive problem and will require replacement of the burned-out components.
  • In either situation, do not use the washer until you have made repairs to avoid a hazardous fire.

7. Rust Spots Appear on Washer Lid

Problem: Rust spots are appearing on the inside of the washer lid.

  • Rust spots never go away. They only get bigger unless they are corrected, and they can transfer rust stains to laundry. Start by removing as much of the rust growth as possible with a paste of baking soda and distilled white vinegar or lemon juice. Mix 1/4 cup baking soda with just enough vinegar or lemon juice to make a thick paste. Apply the paste over the rusted area, and then use a soft cloth to rub away loose rust particles. You might need to do this several times, rinsing with clear water after each treatment.
  • Once all of the loose rust is removed, repair the rusted areas with an appliance paint following the product directions.

Whirlpool Dryer Problems

Stacked Whirlpool washer and dryer with laundry materials in between

Whirlpool is a leading brand name when shoppers are looking for a washer or dryer in the United States. As with any type of home appliance, there can be problems with any dryer model (such as Duet or Cabrio) and a need for repairs.

Calling a repair technician can be expensive and time-consuming. There are many problems that you can solve yourself by consulting the troubleshooting tips on the Whirlpool website. With just a few tools and a bit of knowledge, your dryer can be working again.

By understanding a bit more about the dryer’s operation and what is causing the problem, even if you can’t fix it yourself diagnosing the issue will save the technician some time and you some money.

Interior Dryer Drum Light Issues

Problem: Dryer works well but interior drum light will not come on even after bulb replacement.

An interior drum light may not be essential to the dryer’s operation, but it is very helpful. Without an interior light, it is easy to make the mistake of leaving clothes, including single socks, in the drum.

A dryer’s door latch or switch and the interior light control electrical systems are on the same circuit. If the door switch is not working properly or has been replaced, the wiring of the interior drum light may not have been done correctly or the wiring has come loose. Check and correct the circuit wiring issues and you should have light.

Dryer Beeps Continuously

Problem: Whirlpool dryer makes a beeping sound every few minutes which sounds like a bird chirping or the sound of a smoke detector when the battery is low.

Unfortunately, the beeping is a result of a bad control panel. Unplugging or resetting the dryer will not solve the problem. The board will need to be replaced. If you are handy with tools and electronics, you can avoid a service call if you do the work yourself to solve the beeping. To help you access the control panel, you should consult a repair manual.

If you don’t feel capable of the repair, it’s time to call a technician. Be sure to explain the problem fully and provide the make and model number of your dryer.

Timer Will Not Advance or Stop on Any Cycle

Problem: All of the dryer cycles run and the dial advances, but the dryer will not advance to OFF and stop running.

  • Solving this issue will take a bit of detective work by running a couple of different cycles to determine the source of the problem. Run a cycle on the Air Only setting to see if the dryer stops. If it won’t advance to OFF on a cycle that has no heat involved, then you need a new timer.
  • Now run a cycle that requires heat, like Permanent Press or Normal Dry. If the dryer will not stop on those cycles, then the issue is the temperature sensor in the dryer and the dryer needs a new timer resistor.
  • The timer and timer resistor are inexpensive parts. With a bit of time and effort and a good repair guide, you can make the repairs yourself.
Whirlpool dryer dial not advancing while running

Dryer Shuts off After Ten Seconds

Problem: The dryer turns on and a loud buzzing noise occurs, then the dryer turns off after ten seconds. It will restart but stops again quickly.

The buzzing noise is usually caused by something that is binding the drum and keeping it from turning freely. Remove the housing and make sure that the drum belt is intact, check that the drum is balanced and that the drum bearings are not worn.

The short-run cycle is an electrical problem. To diagnose the issue, check each electrical component with a voltage meter to see if they are receiving the correct amount of current. Start with the timer switch and check each electrical part independently and replace any defective components. It is also a good idea to check the thermal fuse. This fuse is what turns off a dryer to prevent fires if the temperature swings wildly in the dryer.

Dryer Heats but Drum Does Not Turn

Problem: The dryer is operating and heating but the drum does not turn.

Dryers are fairly simple machines. They work by tossing clothes about so that heated air reaches all the surfaces. The moisture is then extracted through a vent system. If the dryer drum is not turning, it will take much longer for the pile of clothes to dry.

The drum is turned by a pulley or belt system. If the drum is not turning, most likely the drum belt has either broken or slipped off its track. A replacement will involve removing the outer housing so the interior of the dryer can be accessed. Dryer belts are inexpensive and easy to replace if you are handy with tools.

Whirlpool dryer door open revealing drum inside

Whirlpool refrigerator error codes

These error code explanations can help you diagnose a problem with your Whirlpool refrigerator. For repair how-to help, visit the PartsDirect repair help section, which includes repair help for refrigerators, other major appliances, lawn and garden equipment, garage door openers, vacuum cleaners and more. Search for your model number to find a complete list of replacement parts for your refrigerator.

Error Code Condition DIY Advice
d on the refrigerator display Air damper is stuck
Check/Repair

Unplug the refrigerator and examine the air damper that controls air flow from the freezer compartment to the refrigerator compartment for damage. If the air damper is broken, replace it.

Possible parts
Air damper
C on the refrigerator display Refrigerator compartment thermistor (temperature sensor) failure
Check/Repair

Unplug the refrigerator and reconnect the refrigerator thermistor wire harness if loose. Replace the wire harness if damaged. If the wire harness is okay, replace the refrigerator compartment thermistor.

Possible parts
Refrigerator compartment thermistor
C on the freezer display Freezer compartment thermistor failure
Check/Repair

Unplug the refrigerator and reconnect the freezer thermistor wire harness if loose. Replace the wire harness if damaged. If the wire harness is okay, replace the freezer compartment thermistor.

Possible parts
Freezer compartment thermistor
CF on the freezer display Communication failure between main control board and user interface control
Check/Repair

Unplug the refrigerator and check the wire harness connections on the user interface control and the main control board. Reconnect any loose wires. If the wire harness connections are okay, replace the user interface control. If the problem persists, replace the main control board.

Possible parts
User interface control, Main control board
18 degrees F (or -8 degrees C) temperature reading on the freezer display Over-temperature condition
Check/Repair

Make sure that the refrigerator power cord is plugged into the electrical outlet securely. The over-temperature condition is often caused by a power failure . Press the freezer temperature keypad to reset the freezer temperature display once the freezer cools to its normal temperature.

 

Whirlpool range error codes

Whirlpool Stove, Range, and Oven error codes list. Error codes appear on your Whirlpool oven’s display to let you know there is a problem. This complete list of Whirlpool oven fault code definitions will assist you in finding the issue. Use the codes below to clear, check, troubleshoot, and repair your oven. Once you understand the error code displayed, you will know which part of the oven is faulty and causing the error. You can then purchase the part and fix the oven yourself. There are 3 letter error codes, 2 digit error codes, and 4 digit error codes on Whirlpool ovens. This means your Whirlpool oven will show either only 2 digits or two sets of 2 digits with a letter and a number. Example of 4 digit error code = e2 f3.

Whirlpool Oven Error Codes - What To Check - How To Clear

Whirlpool Range, Stove, Oven 3 Letter Error Codes:

Whirlpool Oven Error Code LOC
Reason/Condition for Error Code = Child LOCK is ON
Check/Troubleshoot = Press and hold the ‘Start’ or ‘Cancel’ button for ten seconds to remove LOC from display.

Whirlpool Oven Error Code PSH
Reason/Condition for Error Code = If Start is not pressed within 5 seconds, “PUSH” or “PSH” appears on the display – Press Start
If start is not pressed within 1 minute after pressing the keypad then the function is canceled and time is displayed.
Check/Troubleshoot = Reset power to the oven if you get a constant PSH error:
-Turn OFF circuit breaker to oven for one minute.
-Turn ON circuit breaker to oven.
-Check the oven for one minute to be sure the error code is cleared.

Whirlpool Range, Stove, Oven 2 Digit Error Codes:

Whirlpool Oven Error Code F0
No previous fault codes – press CANCEL to clear

Whirlpool Oven Error Code F1
Reason/Condition for Error Code = Defective Electronic Oven Control or EOC
Check/Troubleshoot = Unplug the oven power cord or turn OFF the circuit breaker – If F1 error persists then replace EOC
Replace/Check Parts = Electronic Oven Control (EOC)

Whirlpool Oven Error Code F2
Reason/Condition for Error Code = Oven Temperature Too High
Check/Troubleshoot = Check for welded contacts on both the bake and broil relays
Replace/Check Parts = Contact Relay – Control Board

Whirlpool Oven Error Code F3
Reason/Condition for Error Code = Open Oven Temperature Sensor
Replace/Check Parts = Replace Oven Temperature Sensor

Whirlpool Oven Error Code F4
Reason/Condition for Error Code = Oven Temperature Sensor Shorted
Replace/Check Parts = Replace Oven Temperature Sensor

Whirlpool Oven Error Code F5
Reason/Condition for Error Code = Control Board Fail
Replace/Check Parts = Replace Control Board

Whirlpool Oven Error Code F7
Reason/Condition for Error Code = Function Key Is Stuck
Replace/Check Parts = Replace Control Board

Whirlpool Oven Error Code F8
Reason/Condition for Error Code = Control Board Fail
Replace/Check Parts = Replace Control Board

Whirlpool Oven Error Code F9
Reason/Condition for Error Code = Oven Door Locking Fail
Check/Troubleshoot = Check door lock switches, stuck lock switch, wiring
Replace/Check Parts = Door Lock Switch

Whirlpool Range, Stove, Oven 4 Digit Error Codes:

Whirlpool Oven Error Code F2 E0 (E0 F2)
Reason/Condition for Error Code = Keypad Wiring Harness NOT Connected
Check/Troubleshoot = Unplug the oven power cord or turn OFF the circuit breaker. Reconnect keypad wiring harness. Plug the oven power cord back in or turn ON circuit breaker. Press CANCEL on the display. If fault code comes back after 1 minute then replace the keypad. If F2 E0 persists then replace the electronic oven control.
Replace/Check Parts = Keypad – Electronic Oven Control

Whirlpool Oven Error Code F2 E5 (E5 F2)
Reason/Condition for Error Code = CANCEL Key (Button) Is Faulty
Check/Troubleshoot = Unplug the oven power cord or turn OFF the circuit breaker. Reconnect keypad wiring harness. Plug the oven power cord back in or turn ON circuit breaker. Press CANCEL on the display. If fault code comes back after 1 minute then replace the keypad. If F2 E5 persists then replace the electronic oven control.
Replace/Check Parts = Keypad – Electronic Oven Control

Whirlpool Oven Error Code F2 E6 (E6 F2)
Reason/Condition for Error Code = CANCEL Key (Button) Is Faulty
Check/Troubleshoot = Unplug the oven power cord or turn OFF the circuit breaker. Reconnect keypad wiring harness. Plug the oven power cord back in or turn ON circuit breaker. Press CANCEL on the display. If fault code comes back after 1 minute then replace the keypad. If F2 E6 persists then replace the electronic oven control.
Replace/Check Parts = Keypad – Electronic Oven Control

Whirlpool Oven Error Code F3 E0 (E0 F3)
Reason/Condition for Error Code = Open Oven Temp Sensor Circuit OR Oven Temp Sensor Faulty
Check/Troubleshoot = Unplug the oven power cord or turn OFF the circuit breaker. Reconnect the oven temperature sensor wiring harness. Replace the wire harness if shorted. Use an ohm meter and check the oven temp sensor resistance. If resistance is not 1080 ohms at room temp then replace the oven temperature sensor. If oven temp sensor resistance checks good then replace the electronic oven control.
Replace/Check Parts = Oven Temperature Sensor – Wiring Harness – Electronic Oven Control

Whirlpool Oven Error Code F3 E1 (E1 F3)
Reason/Condition for Error Code = Oven Temp Sensor Faulty OR Shorted Oven Temp Circuit
Check/Troubleshoot = Unplug the oven power cord or turn OFF the circuit breaker. Reconnect the oven temperature sensor wiring harness. Replace the wire harness if shorted. Use an ohm meter and check the oven temp sensor resistance. If resistance is not 1080 ohms at room temp then replace the oven temperature sensor. If oven temp sensor resistance checks good then replace the electronic oven control.
Replace/Check Parts = Oven Temperature Sensor – Wiring Harness – Electronic Oven Control

Whirlpool Oven Error Code F3 E2 (E2 F3)
Reason/Condition for Error Code = Oven Temp Over 575 Degrees In BAKE Mode
Check/Troubleshoot = Unplug the oven power cord or turn OFF the circuit breaker. Reconnect the oven temperature sensor wiring harness. Replace the wire harness if shorted. Use an ohm meter and check the oven temp sensor resistance. If resistance is not 1080 ohms at room temp then replace the oven temperature sensor. If oven temp sensor resistance checks good then replace the electronic oven control.
Replace/Check Parts = Oven Temperature Sensor – Wiring Harness – Electronic Oven Control

Whirlpool Oven Error Code F3 E3 (E3 F3)
Reason/Condition for Error Code = Oven Temp TOO HIGH In CLEAN Mode
Check/Troubleshoot = Unplug the oven power cord or turn OFF the circuit breaker. Reconnect the oven temperature sensor wire. Replace the wire harness if shorted. Measure the oven temp sensor resistance using a volt/ohm meter. If resistance is not 1080 ohms at room temp then replace the oven temperature sensor. If the oven temperature sensor resistance and wire harness connections a check good then replace the electronic oven control.
Replace/Check Parts = Oven Temperature Sensor – Wire Harness – Electronic Oven Control

Whirlpool Oven Error Code F4 E1 (E1 F4)
Reason/Condition for Error Code = Meat Probe Faulty/Shorted
Check/Troubleshoot = Unplug the oven power cord or turn OFF the circuit breaker. Use a volt/ohm meter and measure the resistance of the meat probe. If resistance is not 59000 ohms at room temp then replace the meat probe. If resistance of meat probe checks good then insert the meat probe and check for a secure connection with probe and jack. If jack is worn then replace. Check that the wire harness on the meat probe jack is not loose. Replace the wire harness if needed.
Replace/Check Parts = Meat Probe – Meat Probe Jack – Wire Harness

Whirlpool Oven Error Code F5 E0 (E0 F5)
Reason/Condition for Error Code = Door Open BUT Latch Is Locked – Latch Switch Communicates A Locked Door
Check/Troubleshoot = Test the oven door switch by opening and closing the door. See if the oven light turns on and off. If the oven door switch is faulty then replace it. Unplug the oven power cord or turn OFF the circuit breaker. Connect any loose wire harnesses on the oven door lock assembly. Replace the wire harness if needed. Check the door lock assembly for faults and replace it if faulty.
Replace/Check Parts = Oven Door Switch – Oven Door Locking Assembly – Wire Harness

Whirlpool Oven Error Code F5 E1 (E1 F5)
Reason/Condition for Error Code = Self Clean Latch Will Not Lock or Unlock
Check/Troubleshoot = Unplug the oven power cord or turn OFF the circuit breaker. Reconnect loose wires on the oven door lock assembly wire harness. Replace wire harness if needed. Check the door lock assembly for faults and replace it if faulty.
Replace/Check Parts = Oven Door Locking Assembly – Wire Harness

Whirlpool Microwave Error Codes

F2 – There are several possible reasons for this error code to appear:

1) Faulty Control Pad

2) Faulty membrane

3) Overheating

4) Convection cooking or temp sensor issue

Control pad issues commonly occur in Whirlpool and Kenmore ovens. Try to clear the error by resetting the unit. Press the Stop or Cancel button and select another mode. Press the Start button to launch the selected program. If the fault is still there, press Stop or Cancel again and disconnect the unit from mains. Wait five minutes or so and reconnect the oven. If the issue persists, contact a qualified technician. This code may appear if the touchpad is damaged or faulty. Most likely, it needs to be replaced. Finding one for a specific brand is no problem: they are available online or in appliance stores. If you have some knack for mechanical work, buy the right type of membrane and fix it yourself. If not, turn to a professional technician. Amana, Admiral and GE microwave ovens show the F2 fault code when they overheat. Most likely, the relay board or temperature sensor is not working properly and needs to be repaired or replaced. Check with a professional technician. Last, but not least, is convection cooking. When this feature is down, the F2 error code appears. Also, it can be due to a faulty temp sensor.

F5 – The F5 fault code indicates a shorted humidity sensor. This happens when the shorting continues for more than 5 seconds.

F7 – If you see this error code on the display, the microwave simply won’t cook. This happens due to an interruption in the inverter circuit between Neutral and L1.

 

There are several possible causes, such as:

Possible reasons:

1) Poorly aligned or deformed door and/or hinges.

2) An interlock switch problem.

3) Faulty temperature protection sensor.

4) Faulty Cavity Thermostats.

5) The microwave needs a reset. Disconnect it, wait for 40 seconds or so and switch it on.

6) If this does not solve the problem, check the cooling fan and be sure it is not blocked or faulty. Check the magnetron thermostat for resistance and make sure it is 0 Ohms. If it is not, replace it.

7) Be sure that the control cable between plug P2 and the 1100 watt inverter is ok. Check all connections.

8) Check interlock switches. If they are ok, replace the inverter.

9) If none of this has worked, have the control system replaced.

Door – This fault code occurs when there is a door latch problem. Make sure it is closed. If not, press on it a little harder. If it does not work, check the latch mechanism and make sure it is clean. If necessary, use a scrub and a spray cleaner. After that, wipe the mechanism dry. If the problem persists, check the electronic interlock. Not unlikely, the door is dirty or not aligned properly and there is lack of contact between the oven’s body and the inner surface of the door. Clean it or try to adjust it.

 

Code Meaning Possible Cause
Flashing colon : Power failure After a power failure, the colon : will be flashing. Press any key to end this indication. The colon will then be steady when in standby
F2 Membrane switch failure Replace membrane switch. If problem persists, replace electronic control
F3H Humidity sensor out of range Connect a new sensor to the electronic control. If problem persists, replace electronic control
F6 Microwave relay failure Check wiring to Relay for short circuits. If wiring is OK, replace electronic control
F3T Exhaust Fan Thermostat Failure Check that the oven temperature is not below 5C (41F) or above 60C (140F). If problem persists, replace the control system assembly

Whirlpool Washer Error Codes

Use these Whirlpool front load washer error codes to help diagnose your problem. These may not be all Error Codes that will show for your model See your Owner’s Manual for the Error Codes for your specific model.

Error Code Error Possible Solution
LOC or LC Control Lock has been activated Touch the Control Lock button, or (on older models) determine which button activates control lock from your Owner’s Manual. Some models require you to press and hold the button.
dET Detergent cartridge not detected in the dispenser. This is on select models. If you are using single-load doses of detergent, ignore this message.

Ensure the dispenser cartridge is inserted correctly and the dispenser drawer is shut completely.

Int The cycle was paused or canceled.  The washer may take 20 to 30 minutes to stop spinning and drain, and will display this error code during that time.

To remove the code, press pause or cancel button twice and the power button once. If the code is still displayed, unplug the washer or disconnect the power for one minute.

rL or F34 Items were detected in the washer during the Clean Washer cycle. Remove items from the drum and restart the Clean Washer cycle.
Sud or Sd There are too many suds in the washing machine. The washer will not be able to spin out water with the excess suds. When “Sud” or “Sd” is displayed, the washer automatically extends the rinse time to remove the excess suds. During this time, the washer pauses the tumbling and adds water for additional rinsing. This pause allows the bubbles in the suds to break. This pause and rinsing are necessary and may occur several times to eliminate the suds.

Make sure you are using HE or High Efficiency detergent. Find more information on HE Detergent use in your Washer.

If you used “no splash” or “easy pour” liquid chlorine bleach, you could also have too many suds. This type of liquid chlorine bleach contains a thickening agent that may create excess suds in washers. If this is the case, run the washer with regular liquid bleach products.

The Sud or Sd code may also be the result of a restricted drain hose or standpipe (drainpipe). Make sure that the drain hose is not kinked or clogged. Find more information on How to Install the Drain Hose.

F5 E2 The door is not locking properly. Check that there are no items blocking the door and it is closing completely. Press the Pause or Cancel button twice and the Power button once to clear the code.
F7 E1 Indicates a motor speed sensing error, The motor can not achieve the correct speed for the cycle selection. Check that:

  • All the shipping bolts have been removed
  • The washer has not been overloaded

Press the Pause or Cancel button twice and the Power button once to clear the code.

F8 E1 or LO FL The washer is sensing a low flow of water. Check that:

  • The household water supply is turned on and both the cold and the hot water faucets or valves are fully open.
  • The water inlet hoses are not kinked (learn more about How to check your Fill Hoses if your Washer is not Filling)
  • There are no anti-flood hoses and controls in the water line connected to the washer (learn more about Should I use Flood Safe Devices on my Front Load Washer

Press the Pause or Cancel button twice and the Power button once to clear the code.

F8 E2 Indicates there is a problem with the Dispenser System This is on select models. Verify detergent drawer or detergent cartridge is not clogged with detergent.
F9 E1 Indicates that drain times are longer than expected, typically over eight (8) minutes. Make sure the drain hose is not kinked or clogged. Use the U-shaped drain hose form on the drain hose. The standpipe (drainpipe) height requirements are 96″ (244 cm) maximum and 39″ (99 cm) minimum.

Excessive suds may also cause delays in draining. Make sure you are using HE detergent.

Other F# E# code Indicates other error Unplug the washer or disconnect the power for one minute and reconnect it again. Reselect the cycle and press Start.

 

Whirlpool Dryer Error Codes

Code Problem Explanation
PF Power failure Your dryer had a power failure during the dry cycle.
F06 Door lock fault Check to make sure the door is able to close properly.
F30 Restricted airflow Clean the lint trap and check the vents to be sure your dryer is receiving adequate airflow to work.
F28, F29 Moisture sensor failure The moisture sensor may have malfunctioned and is not sensing moisture.
F01 Main electrical control board failure Try unplugging the machine for 5 minutes and then plugging it back in. If you still see the code, the control board likely needs to be replaced.
F02 Keypad or user interface failure A button is stuck. If you can’t unstick the button, you may need to replace the user interface assembly that contains the stuck button.

Whirlpool Dishwasher Error Codes

If you have a Whirlpool dishwasher that’s not running as usual it’s safe to say it’s probably developed a fault. Looking into the problem yourself may appear to be daunting, but if there’s an error code on your dishwasher display or the start button light is flashing your helpful machine is letting you know the area causing the problem.

Identifying Whirlpool Dishwasher Error Codes

Whirlpool dishwasher fault codes are usually a two-digit code beginning with F or a flashing start button light which pauses intermittently. For Whirlpool dishwasher flashing light codes, you’ll need to count the number of flashes between each pause to establish which code your dishwasher is displaying.
These Whirlpool dishwasher codes apply to most Whirlpool models and some other dishwasher brands too.
Read on to discover which part of your dishwasher is causing the fault code to display and how to fix your Whirlpool dishwasher problems.

Safety First! Please make sure that you’ve switched off your appliance and disconnected it from the mains before beginning any repair.

Whirlpool dishwasher error codes list

F1 (or 1 flash) – Temperature sensor

The temperature sensor in your machine has detected the water temperature is too low (below -3°C) or too high (above 85°C). It could be the case that the water coming into your machine is an unusual temperature, but it’s most likely that the NTC temperature sensor has failed and will need replacing.

F2 (or 2 flashes) – Water leak

You most likely have a leak in your machine if you see this error. You’ll need to drain the base, find the leak and repair it to fix the problem.

F3 (or 3 flashes) – Heating System

If your dishwasher is not heating or is heating too slowly this could be caused by:

–          A faulty heating element – the most likely cause of the issue

–          A faulty temperature sensor

–          A faulty connection between the control board and the heater (check the relay connections on the PCB)

F4 (or 4 flashes) – Drainage system

This error indicates that your machine has failed to drain as expected. A blocked or faulty drain pump or hose could be the cause of this fault. If so the pump will need cleaning or replacing. The fault could also be caused by the machine siphoning if the hose is to low, an optical sensor or very occasionally the control board.

F5 (or 5 flashes) – Rotor blocked

There is a problem with the rotor part of the wash motor (the part which moves). You may need to replace your dishwasher motor if this fault occurs.

F6 (or 6 flashes) – Not filling

Water is not entering your dishwasher as expected. The inlet valve which lets water into your machine could need replacing or there could be a blockage in the inlet hose. There may also be a problem with the water supply to your machine (if the tap connecting to the hose is turned off or low for example) or the flow meter which monitors the water coming into your machine may have failed.

F7 (or 7 flashes) – Flow Meter

F7 relates specifically to the flow meter, but as well as a faulty flow meter it could be caused by similar issues to F6 including:

–          A blockage or kink in the water inlet hose

–          A faulty water inlet valve

–          A closed water tap

F8 (or 8 flashes) – Water Level

If there is too much water detected in your dishwasher this error code will appear. The water level issue could be caused by:

–          A blocked filter preventing your machine from draining

–          A problem with the system that lets water into your machine

–          Excessive foaming in the machine (possibly caused by adding too much detergent)

–          A spray pump fault caused by a problem with the main wash motor

F9 (or 9 flashes) – Continuous water inlet

A dishwasher continuously fills with water for one of two most likely reasons. Either the inlet valve is faulty and is not closing or there is a short circuit on the main control board. The valve or control board may need to be replaced.

F0 (or 10 flashes) – Sensor failure

You may see this error code appear if you have run a test cycle to diagnose your dishwasher. (To see how to run a test cycle, consult your appliance manual; if you don’t have your manual you may be able to download it from our library.)  You will need to test the sensors in your machine and their connections with the main control board to get to the bottom of this fault.

There may be sensors in your machine for water temperature, input flow or even water level/flow pressure.

FA (or 11 flashes) – Optical water indicator (turbidity)

This fault indicates an error with the sensor in your machine that monitors the water cleanliness. If this sensor detects ‘dirty water’ the machine may repeat a rinse cycle. If dirt has blocked the senor it may also show this error. Check the sensors and its connections with the control panel will need checking. There is also a chance excessive foaming of detergent in your dishwasher could give this sensor an inaccurate reading.

FB (or 12 flashes) – Motorised diverter valve

The dishwasher diverter valve controls the flow of water to the upper dishwasher spray arm. If it is faulty it will need checking and possibly replacing.

FC (or 13 flashes) – Water hardness sensor

Water hardness sensors monitor how hard the water is in your area and let you know when to add dishwasher salt to combat hard water. If the Salt reservoir is filled and adjusted correctly then the sensor in your machine may be faulty and you’ll need to fit a new one.

If you need qualified help.

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