Maytag Appliance Repair

maytag appliance repair
maytag appliance repair

Maytag Appliances

 

Maytag Washer
Maytag Dryer
Maytag Refrigerator
Maytag Range
Maytag Oven
Maytag Ice maker
Maytag Ice machine

Maytag Cook top
Maytag Vent hood
Maytag Freezer
Maytag Trash Compactor
Maytag Wine Cooler
Maytag Dishwasher

 

Maytag Appliance Repair

 

My Appliance Repair Houston has been providing appliance repair in any Houston area and nearby Houston towns for many years. Our well-trained appliance repair technicians have decades of experience in Maytag appliance repair and always keep up with the latest trends and modern technology standards. Our skilled repair guys in Houston have a high expertise in the diagnosis, repair and maintenance of the following Maytag appliance:Maytag was one of the top three appliance providers in the North America which offered a wide range of large and small appliances. Maytag company sold a wide range of dryers, dishwashers, cooktops, refrigerators, ranges and washing machines. It also produced a lot of mixers and blenders under Jenn-Air. The quality and long-term service life is what makes this appliance brand one of the most popular among Houston families.
However, even the most tried and tested appliance company like Maytag may experience some breakdowns and malfunctions which after all require Maytag appliance repair services.

• Dishwashers
• Washing machines
• Cooktops
• Dryers
• Ranges
• Other small and large appliances etc.
Whether you experience some problems and need Maytag appliance repair, just schedule a service appointment in order to get the same-day broken appliance repair. Our skilled repair guys are equipped with the repair parts and replacement details for all Maytag appliance repair types, so you can rest easy that your broken Maytag refrigerator or a Maytag dishwasher will be up and running again the same day you schedule a service call. Besides, our well-skilled repair specialists will be happy to give advice and provide actionable tips on proper maintenance and care of your Maytag appliance, so your Huston house appliance serves you as long as possible.

We take care about our Houston customers and value their precious time, so our priority is to keep you and your family members free of any repair problems. If you choose My Appliance Repair Houston company services, you can definitely rest assured that your Maytag dishwasher or fridge, or a dryer will be functioning again the same day you call for us.

Besides the same day Maytag appliance repair, our Houston appliance repair company also provides other advantages:
• Free Maytag repair estimates;
• Free diagnostic in case of a complete repair by our Houston experts;
• A well-trained and licensed repair specialist who will quickly diagnose and fix any Maytag repair issue, as well as give an expert advice on maintenance of your repaired appliance.
• Guarantee on all Maytag repairs and factory replacement parts;
• Quick and affordable Maytag appliance repair within the first visit to any Houston or nearby area;
• A flexible service schedule at the most convenient time for you;
• A clean house after all the repair works are finished;
• A guaranteed customer satisfaction.

Maytag Washer Problems

CHECK THE TIMER

The first thing to check is the timer on the washer. If the timer is defective, then this will stop the washer from functioning correctly, since it’s a crucial part of a washing machine. You can check it by:

  1. Checking your washer’s wiring diagram to locate the terminals that control the timer motor.
  2. Unplug the power chord of your machine at the wall.
  3. Open the washer’s control panel
  4. Unplug the timer’s wiring harness.
  5. Use a multimeter to test the timer for continuity – if it reads 0.000 on the display meter, then there is continuity. You should be able to find a pictorial diagram on the back of the washer that shows you which numbers on the timer socket match with which set of contact within the timer.
  6. You should also get a reading of greater than 0.000 but less than 5 ohms when you check the resistance.
  7. If the motor winding is defective, then the multimeter will display “”O.L.” on the display, and this means it is defective and needs to be replaced.

CHECK THE USER CONTROL AND DISPLAY BOARD

Another common issue is a defective user control and display board. To see if it is faulty:

  1. Make sure each button is working properly by testing them out. If some of the buttons aren’t working correctly, this could mean your board needs to be replaced.
  2. Before replacing it, check that the control and display board has power.
  3. If you find that it isn’t a power issue, replace the board.

CHECK THE LINE FUSE

When the circuits in your washer are overloaded, the line fuse blows, causing the washer to not work. To check if the line fuse is faulty, you will need to:

  1. Use a multimeter to test it for continuity. If the meter reads 0.000 on the display, then there is continuity – which means it doesn’t need to be replaced.
  2. If the line fuse does not have continuity, you’ll need to replace it.
  3. If you do need to replace it, then make sure you find out the underlying cause so you can make sure it doesn’t happen again. You can do this by checking for components that have shorted out, like wires, the drain pump, or the washer motor.

CHECK THE THERMAL FUSE

When your Maytag washer overheats, it can cause the thermal fuse to blow. When this happens, it will stop the washer from starting.

  • To determine if the thermal fuse is OK, use a multimeter to test it for continuity. Again, if the meter reads 0.000 on the display, then there is continuity, and it doesn’t need to be replaced.
  • If you do replace the fuse, make sure you investigate further as to the root cause of the problem, or the new fuse will probably blow out as well.

CHECK IF THE POWER WORKS

When your washer won’t work, it might be as simple as your power outlet not working. Pull out the power chord from the washer and then try another appliance to see if that works. If the other appliance also doesn’t work, then you have a problem with your power source. You should then check your fuses, and if you find a fault with the fuses and fix them, the washer should start working again.

CHECK THE DOOR LOCK

The door lock on the washer ensures that the door stays shut while the washing machine is in operation. If you discover that the door isn’t shutting properly, this means that the washer won’t work, and this could be the cause of the problem. Faulty door locks can be caused by mechanical or electronic issues. You can check the lock by:

  1. Check the door lock to see if there is any obvious damage. If so, you will need to replace it.
  2. If it is not damaged, check that it latches correctly, and if it doesn’t, then it will also need to be replaced.
  3. If it is not a mechanical issue, then you’ll need to use a multimeter to test that each of the door lock switches has continuity. If not, you will need to replace the switches.

CHECK THE POWER CORD

It could be that the washer’s power cord isn’t working correctly, so give it a thorough going over to ensure it is not the cause of the washer not working. You can do that by:

  1. Ensuring that the power is getting to the electrical outlet.
  2. If that is not the problem, then use a multimeter to test to see if the cord is working correctly.
  3. If it is not working, then replace the power cord.

CHECK THE MAIN CONTROL BOARD

If your Maytag washer is not working, then it could be due to a defective main control board. However, this is only the cause in extremely limited cases, so make sure you check out the other common causes before replacing the mainboard. If you need to replace the mainboard, then it can be very expensive and, depending on the washer, may not be worth doing.

Maytag Dryer Problems

The most common Maytag dryer problems

Maytag dryer not starting

Your dryer not starting can be a massive inconvenience, but there is some good news. The most common causes are as a result of a faulty power socket, blown fuses, and tripped circuit breakers. These are all easily fixed by an experienced electrician.

If the issue is not a result of power, then try checking the door latch. A damaged or faulty door latch can prevent the dryer from starting and will need to be replaced.

You can replace the door latch yourself.

  1. Ensure your dryer is disconnected from its power source.
  2. Remove the door hinges and take off the door.
  3. Access the latch and replace the old latch with the new latch.
  4. Replace the door back onto the dryer.
  5. Turn on the power and check if your dryer is working correctly.

If your door latch is fine and your dryer still won’t turn on, then check that thermal fuse and starter switch before calling a professional to give you a hand.

Maytag dryer not drying

If your Maytag dryer isn’t doing its job and drying your clothes completely in a single cycle, you have a problem. The most common cause is a faulty dryer moisture sensor.

Your moisture sensor is important because it sensors how much moisture is in the load and adjusts the drying cycle as needed. You can check the moisture sensor yourself and replace it if need be.

  1. Ensure your dryer is disconnected from its power source.
  2. Partially remove the top panel so you are able to access the wire harnesses that are connected to the control panel.
  3. Disconnect the write harness.
  4. Fully remove the top panel and then unscrew the control panel and take it off.
  5. Find the screws holding the lint screen housing onto the front panel of the dryer door.
  6. Unscrew them and close the dryer door.
  7. Find the locking tab on the front panel and disconnect the wire harness that is connected to the door.
  8. Remove the front panel.
  9. Find the moisture sensor and disconnect any attached wires.
  10. Once you have removed the mounting plate, the lint screen, and the grill, you should be able to replace the old moisture sensor with a new one.
  11. Put the dryer back together again.

Another common cause is a faulty heating element. In most cases, your dryer will still work and complete the cycle with a faulty heating element, but your clothes will be damp afterwards.

Thankfully replacing your heating element is a simple DIY job.

  1. Ensure your dryer is disconnected from its power source.
  2. Remove the back panel and locate the heating panel
  3. Remove the old one and install the new one.
  4. Reattach the back panel and try a cycle.

The last common cause for your clothes not drying is a blacked lint screen. If the lint screen is blocked, it will restrict airflow and hinder the drying process. You should check that your lint screen is not blocked and ensure it is cleaned every six months or so.

Maytag dryer timer not working

The timer is an important part of your dryer and may stop working as a result of faulty motor, defective wiring, or even excessive use.

If your timer troubles are caused by a faulty motor, it will need to be replaced. This is a job you can do yourself but it is best if you have a wee bit of experience before you start.

  1. Ensure your dryer is unplugged from the power source. If you have a gas dryer, shut off the gas.
  2. Remove the control console and locate the timer.
  3. Set your multimeter to Rx1. If your device doesn’t have this setting, you will need to set it to ohms and turn it up to a higher level than your expected resistance.
  4. Place the probes on the terminals and test for continuity. You’re looking for a reading between 2,000 and 3,000 ohms.
  5. If the reading is not as expected, it may be time to replace the faulty motor.

If the time is faulty due to excessive use it may need to be replaced itself.

Maytag dryer drum not spinning

If the drum in your dryer is not spinning then the most common reason is a faulty or broken drive belt. This is an easy fix and can be done yourself.

  1. Ensure your dryer is unplugged from its power source.
  2. Start by removing the lower access panel or panels.
  3. Find the lint filter and carefully remove it from the dryer.
  4. Remove the two screws that are underneath where the lint filter was located.
  5. Next, you will need to remove the top panel from the dryer. You will need to disconnect the door switch before you can take it off fully.
  6. Locate the dryer’s drive belt.
  7. Check the drive belt for any signs of wear and tear or damage.
  8. If there is damage or it has snapped, it will need to be replaced.
  9. If you are replacing the drive belt, start by removing the old one from the dryer.
  10. You will need to release the bearing by pulling the belt up and disconnecting it from the pulleys before you can remove it.
  11. Remove the front guide and maneuver the drum so you have enough room to remove the old belt.

Maytag Refrigerator Problems

If you’re looking for help fixing your Maytag Refrigerator, look no further! Our comprehensive Maytag Refrigerator Troubleshooting guide will explain common issues, provide tips, and show you how to read your model’s error codes.

 

THE REFRIGERATOR ISN’T COOLING OR IS TOO WARM 
There may be a simple reason why your fridge isn’t as cold as you expect. If it’s just been installed, you’ve recently loaded in a lot of food or the doors have been opened a lot that day, you may need to wait up to 24 hours for the temperature to drop back down. If not, run through these other steps to narrow down the cause.
ADJUST THE TEMPERATURE
The recommended temperature for the refrigerator is 37°F and the freezer 0°F. But, if your refrigerator is located next to a heat source or in a room that’s warmer than usual, you may need to adjust the temps from the factory settings.
CHECK THE SETTINGS
A setting that restricts cooling could have been accidentally turned or left on. For example, many refrigerators have a “Cooling On/Off” setting, a “Power Outage” setting that kicks in after a power outage or a “Showroom Mode” that will need to be turned off when you bring the refrigerator home.
CHECK IF VENTS ARE OBSTRUCTED
There should be vents somewhere in your refrigerator that promote air flow from the freezer to the fridge and keep things cool. Make sure these aren’t blocked by food items.

THE ICEMAKER ISN’T MAKING ENOUGH ICE 
A standard icemaker should produce about three pounds of ice a day. If your refrigerator was just installed, it may take 24 hours for ice production to begin and up to three days for full ice production. If a large amount was recently removed, it could take 24 hours to fully replenish. If your icemaker isn’t making enough ice, try these three things before contacting a professional:
MAKE SURE THE ICEMAKER IS TURNED ON
Sometimes an icemaker can get accidentally turned off. Turn it back on by turning the dial to “Ice Maker On” or moving the lever over the ice bin down.
CHECK IF THE WATER LINE IS KINKED
Locate the water line behind the fridge. If it’s looped or kinked, straighten it to enhance water flow.
MAKE SURE WATER SHUT-OFF VALVES ARE FULLY OPEN
Double check that the refrigerator is connected to the water supply in the back of the fridge. If so, make sure all water shut-off valves are fully open. The main valve is usually located under the sink, in the cabinet next to the refrigerator or in the basement, while additional valves may exist in the tubing.

EXCESS MOISTURE IN THE FRIDGE OR FROST IN THE FREEZER 

A minimal amount of condensation and moisture is normal, especially during higher humidity conditions. To avoid excess moisture buildup, limit door openings. Get all items out at one time, keep food organized and close the door as soon as possible. If you’re still noticing excess moisture, run through these three steps:
MAKE SURE THE DOOR IS SEALED PROPERLY
Ensure door seals are making full contact with the refrigerator, so no humidity can sneak in. If they’re not, check that nothing is obstructing the door.
WIPE DOWN THE DOOR SEAL GASKET
Sometimes food pieces and soil can accumulate on the door seals, so wipe these down with a simple cloth, water and soap.
CHECK THAT THE REFRIGERATOR IS LEVEL
An unlevel fridge can cause the doors to close improperly, letting humidity in. It can be unlevel if it wasn’t installed properly or the floor itself is unlevel, causing the fridge to lean. Use a level to measure from front to back and side to side, then adjust the leveling legs as necessary.

Maytag Range Problems

If you’re looking for help fixing your Maytag Range, look no further! Our comprehensive Maytag Range Troubleshooting guide will explain common issues, provide tips, and show you how to read your model’s error codes.

 

What to do if your Maytag oven or range is not working 
If your oven or range is not working there are a couple of things you can check.

Check the electrical supply.  Ensure the appliance is plugged into a grounded outlet with a dedicated circuit (240V receptacle for electric ranges, 120V receptacle for gas ranges and the outlet is operational. Also check to make sure the circuit breaker has not tripped or fuse has blown.
Error Code. If the appliance is showing an error code, try resetting the appliance. This will clear the error code.
Make sure the Control Lock function is turned OFF. Some ovens may be equipped with Control Lock. Look for “Control Lock” on the oven control console, then reset by, typically, pushing & holding for 3 seconds. To locate the Control Lock feature for your particular model, look in the Table of Contents in your Owner’s Manual.

Reset power to the product: 
Power unit down by turning off the circuit breaker(s) for one (1) minute.
Power unit up by turning on the circuit breaker(s).

Monitor the oven/range for one (1) minute to ensure the error code does not display again.
Verify oven operation.

Maytag Oven Problems

These 5 reasons for a Maytag oven not heating properly can save valuable troubleshooting time getting to the root of the problem. Whether you have a gas or electric oven not heating up, our Maytag oven troubleshooting tips will help you find the answer.

#1 – Maytag Oven Power Issues

When your Maytag oven won’t heat up sometimes the problem is the power source and not the oven at all. Electric ovens need a higher voltage outlet to receive adequate power while even gas ovens require electricity to ignite. Here are some quick checks of your electrical source that can rule out power issues:

  • Make sure your electric oven is plugged into the proper 240V outlet and that a gas oven is properly plugged into a 120V outlet
  • Assess power cords for damage.
  • Maintain proper access to an outlet without the use of extension cords
  • Provide a dedicated circuit for your oven
  • Ensure that the oven’s circuit breaker hasn’t tripped or blown a fuse

maytag oven not heating

#2 – Oven Needs To Be Calibrated

If you’re experiencing Maytag oven temperature problems you may feel your oven isn’t getting hot enough for the temperature you set. To fix this problem you can calibrate your oven’s heat so it meets your expectations for temperature settings and cooking time. This involves raising or lowering the oven’s heat output by degrees.

The exact method for calibrating your oven will vary according to each model. We recommend consulting your owner’s manual instructions for calibrating your particular oven.

#3 – Blown Maytag Thermal Oven Fuse

A Maytag oven not heating at all may be due to a blown thermal oven fuse. Your oven’s thermal fuse is a protective feature that trips when the oven overheats. A tripped fuse shuts off power to the oven, making it unable to heat at all. If a thermal fuse trips when overheating isn’t a possibility it’s likely that the fuse is faulty and needs replacement.

#4 – Defective Maytag Oven Heating Element

An electric oven has two heating elements at the top and bottom of the oven. While the top element is mainly used for broiling, the bottom element provides heat for all other cooking functions. Signs that your Maytag oven’s heating element is defective include:

  • Longer pre-heating times
  • Food is over or undercooked on the bottom
  • Heating element isn’t glowing red when the oven is on
  • Heating element has burnt or damaged spots

A defective heating element typically results from a lack of power or a heating element that has burned out. If multimeter testing reveals a lack of continuity, the element should be replaced.

maytag oven temperature problems

#5 – Maytag Oven Igniter Not Working

When you have a gas oven not heating up correctly, a common reason is a malfunctioning igniter. The igniter uses electricity to heat up and open the gas valve, sending gas to the burner. Given its constant use each time you operate the oven, the igniter can wear out with time.

When an igniter malfunctions, it either doesn’t draw enough electricity to open the gas valve or no longer draws any electricity at all. If multimeter testing reveals either of these possibilities the igniter is faulty and needs to be replaced.

Maytag Ice Maker Problems

If the ice maker in your Maytag refrigerator has stopped working, there is no need to panic, as there is often a simple fix. In most cases, the ice maker stops working because of ice build-up or the need for a new water filter. The next most common cause is a fault with the water inlet valve, which is relatively easy to check and replace. Read on to get your Maytag ice maker working again.

Try a Simple Reset

The old turn it off and on solution can work for your ice maker just like your computer. Before continuing down this list, turn off the power to the refrigerator for a minute, and then turn it back on. If it is not a mechanical or parts failure, this simple fix may get your ice maker working again.

Most ice maker models also have a reset button. Models with a display panel can be reset by consulting your manual for the reset instructions. Other models may have a “test” button or a place to insert a pin to reset the ice maker. Do not press the reset button repeatedly, as it can cause damage to the ice maker or water to overflow.

Make Sure the Ice Maker Is On

This simple solution is more common than most people would want to admit. Most Maytag ice makers have either an on/off switch or a mechanical arm that needs to be down for the ice maker to work. Depending on the model, the on/off switch may be located on the ice maker or be accessed through the digital display on the front of the refrigerator. If you have a digital display, check that the “ice on” icon is selected, and also check that the child lock feature has not been enabled.

Check the Mechanical Arm

As mentioned above, if your ice maker has a mechanical arm, it needs to be down for the ice maker to work. The arm can also fail if the arm’s spring has broken. Check the arm for signs that the spring has broken, and replace the arm if it is found to be defective.

Is There a Diagnostic Function?

Some Maytag refrigerators will have a diagnostic function that may be able to identify the problem for you. Check the refrigerator’s manual or tech sheet for instructions to operate the diagnostic mode and interpret the results.

Check the Water Filter

Another simple and often overlooked solution is that the water filter needs to be replaced. The water filter needs to be replaced every six months to ensure that the ice maker continues to function.

Also, when you replace the water filter, you need to flush out the system before it will work correctly. If the system has not been flushed out, air may be trapped, which stops the ice maker from working properly. The system also needs to be flushed out after the refrigerator is installed to the water supply line for the first time.

Is the Water Supply Line Connected to the Ice Maker?

Check that the water supply line is connected to the ice maker. Also, check that the water is turned on.

Check for Cracks in the Ice Tray

If your model features a rotating ice tray, a crack in the ice tray can stop the tray from rotating and emptying the ice. If cracked, it should be replaced.

Does It Need Defrosting?

Often the ice maker is not broken; it is just unable to function because of a build-up of ice. Ice may be blocked up inside the dispenser chute, ice bucket, or around the ice maker housing. The water supply line may also be frozen and not allowing water to reach the ice maker.

Depending on where the ice blockage or freeze has occurred, you may be able to use a dishcloth with hot water, a blow dryer, a defrost tool, or a defrost function—or remove the ice maker from the refrigerator to allow it to defrost—to solve the issue.

A blow dryer can be used to defrost the ice; however, make sure to set it to a low heat and be careful not to melt any of the ice maker components. Also, beware of electrocution from using the blow dryer if there is any spilled water around the refrigerator. A frozen water line tool can also be purchased to clear a frozen water line. Your refrigerator may also have an ice maker defrost function that you can activate.

Is the Temperature Correct?

For your Maytag ice maker to work correctly, the freezer temperature should be between 0 to 5 degrees Fahrenheit (-18 to -15 degrees Celsius). Checking and adjusting the refrigerator and/or freezer temperature may get the ice maker working again. If the temperature is too high, cleaning debris off the refrigerator condenser coils will often fix the issue.

Water Inlet Valve & Water Pressure

Ice makers require water, which is controlled by the water inlet valve. If your water inlet valve is defective or not getting enough pressure, you will have problems with your ice maker. The water inlet valve can become defective if the valve becomes blocked with mineral deposits, which stop the part from opening. An unusual hum coming from the refrigerator when the ice maker should be filling up with water indicates a blocked valve. If the valve is blocked, it is recommended that the valve be replaced.

It is also possible for the valve to fail electrically. The valve can be tested with a multimeter to determine if it needs replacing.

The water inlet valve requires at least 20 pounds of water pressure per square inch to operate properly. The water supply line can be removed from the back of the refrigerator and the pressure checked. Kinks in the supply water line may also restrict the water supply to the ice maker.

Other Less Common Issues to Troubleshoot

Refrigerator Door Switch

A fault with the refrigerator door switch will not allow the ice maker to operate. The door switch can be tested with a multimeter to determine if it needs replacing.

Ice Tray Thermostat

If there is a fault with the ice tray thermostat, the ice maker will not know when water is required or when ice should be emptied from the ice tray. If you suspect the ice tray thermostat, test it with a multimeter for continuity. If defective, on most models the ice tray thermostat can be removed and replaced.

Ice Level Control Board

Some Maytag refrigerators have an ice level control board that operates an infrared beam that signals the ice maker to stop making ice when the ice bucket reaches a certain level. If there is a fault with the ice level control board, the ice maker will stop making ice. On most models, the ice level control board can be removed and replaced.

Ice Maker Switch

Occasionally, the switch to turn the ice maker on can become defective. If the ice maker switch seems defective, test it for continuity with a multimeter to determine if it needs to be replaced.

Maytag Fridge Problems

Maytag refrigerators are some of the best on the market. Yet, despite being highly reliable appliances, they still suffer from common refrigerator problems from time to time.

Common Maytag fridge problems include not cooling enough, not making ice, making too much noise, or a water dispenser that isn’t working correctly. Each issue has unique troubleshooting steps. First, remember that the fridge needs 24 hours to stabilize its temperature, and you must turn on the water supply fully to supply the water dispenser and ice maker.

In this guide, you’ll discover what causes these common problems and what steps you can take to resolve them as soon as possible.

What Are The Most Common Problems With Maytag  Refrigerators?

Here are 5 of the most common problems you’re likely to experience with a Maytag refrigerator:

Maytag Fridge Isn’t Cooling

Firstly, you might find that your Maytag fridge isn’t as cold as it should be. That can be pretty frustrating, especially when you’re trying to keep food chilled inside so they won’t go bad so quickly.

There are three likely reasons your fridge isn’t cooling:

  • Too soon: Your Maytag fridge requires at least 24 hours to cool down. That’s especially true if you’ve turned it on for the first time or if there was a power outage recently.
  • Wrong set temperature: Check the temperature settings in your fridge. The temperature might be too high, which is why the appliance feels warm inside. Ideally, the temperature must be below 40 degrees Fahrenheit or lower if the surrounding environment is hotter than usual.
  • Blocked vents: Smooth airflow is one of the most critical factors for all-around cooling. Cold air can’t circulate when objects or ice build-ups block the fridge’s vents. So, only some parts of the compartment are cold while others stay warm.

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Thankfully, you can solve these problems very quickly. Firstly, check that no items or ice build-ups block all the air vents inside. Then, lower the fridge temperature to below 40 degrees Fahrenheit.

Lastly, leave your fridge alone for at least 24 hours to stabilize the temperature inside. Try to avoid opening the fridge door as much as possible, so the cooling process happens faster.

There’s Too Much Moisture Or Frost Inside

It’s normal to find some moisture or frost inside your refrigerator. However, too much of either one is a sign of a problem. Under normal conditions, the air inside a Maytag refrigerator should be cold and dry, with very little humidity inside.

When there’s too much moisture or frost inside, however, it’s likely that:

  • The door was left open for too long: When the fridge door is left open for too long, a lot of outside moisture and warm air will quickly enter the appliance’s compartment. That will cause lots of condensation to occur, leading to excess moisture and frost inside the fridge.
  • There’s a door seal problem: Maytag fridge doors have a seal (or ‘gasket’) on them to ensure a tight seal whenever the door is closed. Unfortunately, when the door seal is damaged or warped, it’ll let hot air seep into the fridge compartment, causing condensation and excess moisture to form.
  • The fridge isn’t level: Your Maytag fridge must be perfectly level. If not, the doors will not close properly, causing the same problems mentioned above. In addition, warm air will enter the fridge compartment, leading to excess moisture and frost.

First, ensure that the door seal is clean and free from damage to resolve this issue. Then, adjust the fridge legs so that the appliance is perfectly level.

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Lastly, keep the items in the fridge organized. That way, you can find what you need quickly, minimizing the time that you keep the door open.

 

The Fridge Isn’t Making Enough Ice

Another common issue that you might come across is the ice maker not producing enough ice. That can be pretty frustrating, seeing as how the ice maker usually provides you with plenty of convenience.

An ice maker that doesn’t produce enough ice is likely caused by:

  • The ice maker not turned on: The ice maker in your fridge has an on/off switch. It’s normal to accidentally turn it off, stopping it from making any new ice.
  • Kinked water line: The water line connects your fridge to your household water supply. If a kink forms in that line, water won’t flow into your fridge and its ice maker. As a result, your Maytag fridge doesn’t have what it needs to make ice.
  • Closed water valves: The water valve controls water flow into the waterline. You must ensure that you open it all the way, so that water flows into the waterline as it should.

As you can see, the solutions to this issue are pretty straightforward. When the ice maker is on and receiving water, it’ll make ice normally again.

The Fridge Is Making Too Much Noise

It’s entirely normal for a Maytag fridge to make some noise. Some normal noises that you’ll hear include:

  • Vibrating.
  • Occasional popping.
  • Buzzing.
  • Sounds of the compressor running.

To be sure, you can refer to your user manual to identify the typical sounds that will come from your refrigerator.

However, some unusual noises do point to a problem. For example, excessive vibrating noises could point to common issues like an ice buildup around the evaporator fan.

So, when you hear a noise that you know is out of the ordinary for your Maytag fridge, you must troubleshoot it further.

The Water Dispenser Isn’t Working

Last but not least, another frustrating problem you might come across is a water dispenser that stops working on your Maytag fridge.

When that happens, you should troubleshoot:

  • The water supply: Start by checking the incoming water supply. The fridge only has one water supply, though it also splits to serve the ice maker once it enters the refrigerator.
  • The water filter: After the water enters your fridge, it passes through a water filter to remove any impurities. If that filter is clogged or damaged, it will prevent water from reaching the water dispenser.
  • The water dispenser: Check the water dispenser itself. Assuming everything else is working, the dispenser controls could be faulty, or there might be a blockage in the system. Replace any damaged controls and flush out any blockages to restore the water dispenser.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs)

Here are some other frequently asked questions you might have about your Maytag fridge.

Why Is My Maytag Fridge Not Getting Cold?

If your Maytag fridge isn’t getting cold enough, be sure to lower the set temperature and give the refrigerator 24 hours to stabilize. The fridge needs a long time to cool down, especially if you just turned it on for the first time or it was turned off for an extended period.

How Do I Clean The Coils On My Maytag Refrigerator?

The best way to clean your Maytag fridge coils is with a vacuum and a paintbrush. First, use the vacuum to remove large and loose pieces of dirt around the coils. Then, use the paintbrush to clean away any stubborn dirt the vacuum couldn’t remove.

Is There A Reset Button On A Maytag Refrigerator?

There is no dedicated reset button on your Maytag refrigerator. However, each model has a combination of buttons you can press to reset the appliance. Please refer to the user manual to determine which buttons apply to your model. Alternatively, you can disconnect the fridge from its power supply for 5 minutes to cycle its power and reset the appliance.

Why Does My Maytag Fridge Freeze Everything?

Your Maytag appliance’s refrigerator compartment should chill food items but not freeze them. If that’s happening, it’s because the compartment is cooling down excessively. Check that nothing is blocking the air vents and that the temperature isn’t set too low. Lastly, check that the thermostat is in good working order.

Maytag Vent Hood Problems

Are the controls set correctly?

Refer to the Owner’s Manual for specific information on setting the controls.

Have you replaced the light bulb(s)?

If the vent hood fan operates the lights should operate.

Refer to the Owner’s Manual for specific information on replacing bulb(s).

Replacement light bulb(s) are available:

This part can be ordered at our Purchase Genuine Parts site.

 

Have you reset the power?

  • Power the vent hood down by turning off the circuit breaker(s) for one (1) minute.
  • Power vent hood up by turning on the circuit breaker(s).
  • Verify the vent hood light operates.

    Maytag Vent Hood Not Removing Smoke or Odor

    The range hood is designed to remove smoke, cooking vapors and odors from the cooktop area. For best results, start the hood before cooking and allow it to operate several minutes after the cooking is complete to clear all smoke and odors from the kitchen.

    Is the control set correctly?

    Refer to the Owner’s Manual for specific operating instructions.

    Is the grease filter clean and installed correctly?

    For optimal performance, operate the ventilation system with the filter properly installed.  To avoid the buildup of grease, the filter should be cleaned often. For more information on cleaning the grease filter refer to the Owner’s Manual.

    Is the non-vented (recirculating) filter restricting airflow?

    If the vent hood is set to recirculate air rather than exhaust outside it should be equipped with a charcoal recirculating filter. The charcoal filter is not washable. It should last up to 6 months with normal use. Replace with charcoal filter specified in your Owner’s Manual. Refer to the Owner’s Manual for replacement filter information.

    If you would like to download or view product literature for your appliance, please visit our Manuals and Literature page.

    Replacement grease and charcoal filters are available:

    This part can be ordered at our Purchase Genuine Parts site.

    Is there an air movement restriction in the room?

    Any other air movement devices such as ceiling fans, air conditioner registers, etc., can create air currents which interfere with ventilation.

    Make-up air:

    Local building codes may require the use of makeup air systems when using ventilation systems greater than specified CFM of air movement. The specified CFM varies from locale to locale.

    The air that is exhausted by the unit must be replaced. If a room or house is too “tight”, the unit may not vent properly and it will be necessary to introduce more air into the environment.

    Adjacent cabinets:

    Cabinet opening dimensions that are shown in the Installation Instructions must be used.  Given dimensions provide minimum clearance. Cabinets that are closer than the minimum distance allowed can create dead air pockets that impair performance.  Refer to the Installation Instructions for complete details.

    Was the vent system installed correctly?

    If the vent hood is exhausted outside the home there are specific venting requirements. Refer to the Installation Instructions for complete details.

Maytag Wine Cooler Problems

Understanding Your Wine Fridge

Jumping on to troubleshooting as quickly as possible seems the best thing to do when your wine fridge is not cooling, but before getting your hands dirty, take a moment to analyze the type of appliance you have.

Based on the technology employed, wine coolers use either a compressor or a thermoelectric system to keep the air inside the cabinet cold.

Compressor units work just like a regular fridge, and if they’re not cooling, something’s wrong.

But thermoelectric units are not necessarily broken. Before jumping to conclusions that your thermoelectric cooler is defective, you should learn its limitations.

Influenced by the environmental temperature, a thermoelectric cooler will not work effectively if the room temperature is too hot.

These wine fridges work best at ambient temperatures from 50°F to 80°F.

Exceed this on the upper limit, and your appliance will not be able to keep your wine chilled properly.

With this in mind, let’s see the main reasons your wine fridge is not cooling and how to fix it.

If your unit is beeping then we have a specific guide to that problem.

wine shelves in fridge

Reasons Your Compressor Wine Fridge Is Not Cooling

These are the most common reasons (and fixes) for a compressor based wine fridge not maintaining temperature properly.

1# Condenser Fan Is Not Running

A compressor cooling system comprises four elements, one of which is a fan designed to cool down the condenser and condenser coil.

This component turns on with the entire system, and when it doesn’t, the condenser and coil may overheat.

In the long run, this will provoke heat transfer from the elements of the system to the interior of the cabinet, warming it up together with all your delicious wine.

How to fix it?

Make sure the condenser fan is spinning freely and that it’s not obstructed by anything.

Dust and debris may build up and stop the blades from spinning.

If no dust or debris is obstructing the fan movement, the fan is most probably broken, and you’ll have to replace it.

For the DIY lovers out there, this is typically easy to do by just unscrewing the nuts holding it and removing the assembly from the motor section.

Replace the old fan with a new one, and your wine fridge should start cooling again.

wine fridge rack with wine

2# Broken Evaporator

The cold air you feel when opening the door of your compressor wine fridge comes from the evaporator.

This component pulls the air from the coils and cools down the interior of the cabinet.

If the evaporator doesn’t work, the unit will not be able to produce cold air even if the compressor runs at full capacity.

Since the evaporator also uses a fan, the reason for its malfunction can be a blockage.

Sometimes, the blades of the fan can bend due to the accumulation of dust and debris, and that’s another reason why the wine fridge may not be cooling.

How to fix it?

Check out the evaporator and see if there is ice building on it.

Also, check if the blades of the evaporator’s fan are in good condition. Dust and debris could have also built up on the component.

Troubleshooting is easy. If there is ice, let it melt down before plugging in the appliance.

Clean any dust and debris and make sure nothing obstructs the correct functioning of the evaporator.

Also, make sure the bent fan is replaced with a new one promptly.

Wine bottles in fridge

3# Defective Thermostat

If your compressor wine fridge is not cooling, one of the reasons might be a defective thermostat.

This component is responsible for the supply of power to the condenser, evaporator fan, and compressor.

The thermostat also allows you to control and adjust the temperature of your wine fridge, and if this essential component doesn’t work, your wines might get spoiled.

While in most cases a defective thermostat will warm up the interior of the cabinet, there are cases when it cools it down below the freezing threshold.

How to fix it?

A defective thermostat can’t be repaired; you’ll have to replace it altogether.

The user manual and online tutorials explain how to do it, but my advice is to always call in a technician.

This is a delicate procedure that can bring further damage to your wine fridge if performed incorrectly.

wine being retrieved from cooler

Reasons Your Thermoelectric Wine Fridge Is Not Cooling

These are the common problems that cause thermoelectric fridges to struggle with temperature.

1# The Room Temperature Is Too Warm

Thermoelectric wine fridges use Peltier modules to conduct heat out of the cabinet.

And while they are greener and more effective in keeping the wine sediment undisturbed, they are less effective in maintaining a low temperature.

This happens because the thermoelectric wine fridges don’t come with a refrigerant system.

If the environment is too hot, the Peltier module becomes ineffective in cooling the interior.

That’s why it is recommended to place a thermoelectric wine fridge in an environment where the room temperature doesn’t exceed 75°F.

How to fix it?

If your thermoelectric wine fridge is not cooling because the room temperature is too hot, there is good news. Your unit is not defective.

Indeed, this doesn’t mean your wines will be preserved at the right temperature.

The easiest way to fix it is by moving the fridge into a cooler room, perhaps turning on the A/C in the hotter days.

Small narrow wine cooler

2# Improper Ventilation

The room temperature is just right, the thermostat and ventilator work entirely, but your thermoelectric wine cooler is just not cooling?

Check out it has proper ventilation. Because of the way it conducts heat out of the system, a thermoelectric wine fridge needs clearance from the surrounding objects.

How to fix it?

A quick fix solution to this issue is to ensure proper ventilation.

Make sure the wine fridge is positioned away from walls and other objects.

Never build a thermoelectric wine cooler into the room and never place anything on top of it.

If you have a countertop unit, make sure it’s located away from other appliances that generate heat, such as a microwave or toaster oven.

Taking wine from the cooler

3# Disconnected Or Faulty Fan

Like most refrigerators, thermoelectric wine fridges also have a fan that conducts hot air out of the cabinet.

Due to the different technology, the fan of a thermoelectric unit can easily disconnect.

Just like in case of a compressor wine cooler, the fan can also be obstructed by dust and debris, or it may simply break and need replacement.

How to fix it?

If your wine fridge is not cooling and you’ve ruled out room temperature and position, inspect the fan. Make sure it is connected properly and clean.

If disconnected, simply attach the right connectors to the motherboard to troubleshoot.

If the fan is dirty, clean any dust and debris and make sure the system is not clogged. A vacuum cleaner or mild blower can help in this regard.

Final Thoughts

There are multiple reasons why your wine fridge is not cooling and troubleshooting starts with the identifying the type of fridge you have.

Compressor and thermoelectric units use different technologies. Therefore the causes of their malfunctions are completely different.

While a thermoelectric fridge may not cool your beverage for trivial reasons that have nothing to do with malfunctions, troubleshooting a compressor unit is much more complicated.

When a compressor fridge is not cooling, it means something’s broken. It could be a quick fix or something that requires more investigations, but more often than not, you’ll have to call a technician in.

That said, you now know a few good reasons why your wine fridge is not cooling and how to fix it.

Maytag Dishwasher Problems

There are some common and rare problems you would encounter with your Maytag dishwasher. You can call in the repairing specialist or you can attempt troubleshooting using the manual. Some problems are very easy to resolve. The common problems with Maytag dishwashers are the poor quality of wash, no power or the motor failing to start, the washtub failing to fill, running motor, draining issues, noisy operation, and water leak among others. Let us discuss these common issues in our Maytag dishwasher repair troubleshooting guide.

Poor quality of wash is primarily owing to food left on the dishes causing an etching, film or spots. Do not ever place dishes, pots and pans with leftover food inside the dishwasher. Always get rid of solid and liquid food. Else, you would have stains or some kind of unpleasant texture on the dishes. Dishwashers are meant to clean stains, spots and other smudged debris from dishes, not actual solid food that will anyway go helter-skelter inside the tub when the water with the detergent weave the magic.

No Power

If you don’t have any power on your Maytag dishwasher or the motor will not start, check the fuse or circuit breaker. Check the socket to be sure it has power. Check the plug and the wire. Check extensions if you are using one. Confirm the door locking lever is completely closed. Be sure there is no defective door switch as that would prevent the appliance from starting. The motor could be locked or jammed due to some reason which may be the reason behind its malfunctioning or not running. The pump could also be at fault. Check these components and repair or replace them as needed. You may want to call in a technician if there are too many issues.

 

Washtub Fails

If the washtub fails to get filled then it is most likely a clogged water valve or defective water valve solenoid at the root of the problem. Clean the strainer screen. Check the solenoid to ensure continuity. Replace the valve if needed.

No Draining

A running motor but no draining is usually caused due to poor washes. Severe spotting is the real cause. Attend to all kinds of clogging as a result of severe spotting. The drain pump impeller may get clogged too. Likewise, any kind of blockage or locking at the motor would prevent it from starting and running, despite the tub filling up. Get rid of clogs. Noisy operation is usually due to rust, broken glass and other hard debris getting into the impeller and even the spray arms. Worn out or damaged components may also make the noise.

Maytag Dishwasher Error Codes

Here, you can find some common error codes in your Maytag dishwasher.

F0 – Control board error.

You have to check the control board as its door circuit doesn’t appear to be running properly.

F1 – Motor fault – Motor current not changing.

Check wiring to motor from the control board. Also, examine for the bad motor.

F2 – Heater defect

When an error with the heater has occurred, you need to verify its wiring from the control board. Also, have a look at the open high limit thermostat for any damage.

F3 – Maximum current error.

It might occur with the electrical power in the dishwasher. The power could be higher than normal. Heater, motor, or short wiring are the causes for this error. Sometimes, the current sensor might be caused.

F4 – Detergent fault

No detergent has been detected in the main wash for 10 cycles. Either you are not using detergent in the main wash or there might be an error with the detergent cup.

F5 – Rinse Aid fault

An error with the rinse aid dispensing. If it doesn’t go from fall to low, you can see it after the RS functional test.

F7 – Turbidity sensor fault.

Check for proper operation of a wash process sensor.

F8 – Wash arm fault

This is the error with the wash arm rotation. You have to check the pump for correct backwash arms and alignment of the sensor.

F9 – Thermistor fault

When bad temperature sensor reading occurred, you may find this error.

1F0 – Washer arm sensor error

This error has been sensed with the wash arm rotation. Five cycles in a row concluded with a blocked wash arm present. You should check the magnet in the back rinse arms in a pump. Inspect for operational sensor cluster.

1F2 – High limit thermostat

When a temperature detects 155 and the heater is still turn on, this error will be displayed. So, verify the operation of the high limit thermostat.

For more Maytag dishwasher troubleshooting – error codes, take the reference of the Maytag dishwasher diagnostic manual. There, you will get more information specifically for your model.

Maytag Range/Stove/Oven Error Codes

Failure Code Condition Check/Repair
F0:-0 None  
F1:-1 Runaway Cook Upper oven Inspect oven temperature sensor, recommended to replace if needed
F1:-2 Runaway Cook Lower oven Inspect oven temperature sensor, recommended to replace if needed
F1:-3 Runaway Clean Upper oven Inspect oven temperature sensor, recommended to replace if needed
F1:-4 Runaway Clean Lower oven Inspect oven temperature sensor, recommended to replace if needed
F1:-5 Keypad Cancel Upper Check keypad, replace if necessary
F1:-6 Keypad Cancel Lower Check keypad, replace if necessary
F1:-7 Keypad Disconnected Check wiring between keypad and Electronic Range Control
F1:-8 Shorted Keypad Check to see if steam or other moisture is getting into clock assembly. Replace keypad if necessary
F1:-9 Slave  
F1:-A Latch Switch, Upper Inspect oven temperature sensor, recommended to replace if needed
F1:-B Latch Switch, Lower Inspect oven temperature sensor, recommended to replace if needed
F1:-C Door Switch, Upper Inspect door switch, recommended to replace if needed
F1:-D Door Switch, Lower Inspect door switch, recommended to replace if needed
F1:-E EEPROM, Control Recommended to replace Electronic Range Control
F1:-F Jumper, Control
F1:-H EEPROM, Read, Control Recommended to replace Electronic Range Control
F1:-L Oven temperature sensor, Track, Control Inspect oven temperature sensor, recommended to replace if needed
F3:-2 Oven temperature sensor, Lower oven Inspect oven temperature sensor, recommended to replace if needed
F3:-1 Oven temperature sensor, Upper oven Inspect oven temperature sensor, recommended to replace if needed
F9:-1 Latch Lock Upper Inspect oven temperature sensor, recommended to replace if needed
F9:-2 Latch, Unlock Upper Inspect for obstruction in door lock mechanism
F9:-3 Latch Both Upper Inspect for obstruction in door lock mechanism
F9:-4 Latch, Lock Lower Inspect for obstruction in door lock mechanism
F9:-5 Latch Unlock Lower Inspect for obstruction in door lock mechanism
F9:-6 Latch, Both Lower Inspect for obstruction in door lock mechanism

 

Maytag Refrigerator Error Codes

If you’re looking for help fixing your Maytag Refrigerator, look no further! Our comprehensive Maytag Refrigerator error code guide will explain common issues, provide tips, and show you how to read your model’s error codes.

 

CODE: Flashing “F”
PROBLEM: If the letter “F” is flashing on the display the refrigerator, try resetting the refrigerator as instructed below.
FIX:
Reset power to the product:
– Power unit down by turning off the circuit breaker(s) or unplugging the product for one (1) minute.
– Power unit up by turning on the circuit breaker(s) or plugging the product back in.
– Ensure the cooling function is turned on.
– Monitor the refrigerator for one (1) minute to ensure the error code does not display again.

CODE: PO Error Code
PROBLEM: Power Outage: The Power Outage indicator lets you know if the power supply to the refrigerator has been off and the freezer temperature has risen to 18°F (-8°C) or higher. The control panel temperature display will read “PO,” and an alert tone will sound three times.
FIX:
“Confirm” will blink until you acknowledge the power outage by pressing MEASURED FILL under “Confirm.” Once the power outage has been confirmed, the “PO” will disappear, and the display will return to the Home screen.

Maytag Microwave Error Codes

If you’re looking for help fixing your Maytag Microwave, look no further! Our comprehensive Maytag Microwave error code guide will explain common issues, provide tips, and show you how to read your model’s error codes.

 

CODE: C-10, C-11, C-12
PROBLEM: Error with Gas/Easy/PH Sensor.

CODE: C-20, C-21, C-22
PROBLEM: Error with Temp Sensor.

CODE: C-70, C-71, C-72
PROBLEM: Error with Steam Sensor.

CODE: C-A0, C-A1, C-A2
PROBLEM: Functional error.

CODE: C-d0, C-d1, C-d2
PROBLEM: Door or Key error.

CODE: C-F0, C-F1, C-F2
PROBLEM: Communication error.

CODE: E-01
PROBLEM: Open Error

CODE: E-02
PROBLEM: Cooking Time Setting Over Error (Microwave)

CODE: E-03
PROBLEM: Cooking Time Setting Over Error (Grill)

CODE: E-04
PROBLEM: Cooking Time Setting Over Error (Convection)

CODE: E-05
PROBLEM: Cooking Time Setting Over Error (Combination)

CODE: E-06
PROBLEM: Swing Heater Error

CODE: E-11
PROBLEM: Open Gas Sensor Error

CODE: E-12
PROBLEM: Short Gas Sensor Error

CODE: E-13
PROBLEM: T1 Max Time Gas Sensor Error

CODE: E-14
PROBLEM: Dry Up / No Load Gas Sensor Error

CODE: E-21
PROBLEM: Open Temp Sensor Error

CODE: E-22
PROBLEM: Short Temp Sensor Error

CODE: E-23
PROBLEM: T1 Max Time Error

CODE: E-24
PROBLEM: Over Temperature Error

CODE: E-25
PROBLEM: Micro Cook Abnormal Temperature Error

CODE: E-26
PROBLEM: Temperature Not Over AD Error

CODE: E-31
PROBLEM: Open Gas Sensor Error

CODE: E-32
PROBLEM: Short Gas Sensor Error

CODE: E-33
PROBLEM: Under Weight Error

CODE: E-34
PROBLEM: Over Weight Error

CODE: E-35
PROBLEM: Invalid Weight Error

CODE: E-36
PROBLEM: Door Open Error

CODE: E-41
PROBLEM: Open Easy/PH Sensor Error

CODE: E-42
PROBLEM: Short Easy/PH Sensor Error

CODE: E-43
PROBLEM: T1 Max Time Easy/PH Sensor Error

CODE: E-44
PROBLEM: Dry Up Easy/PH Sensor Error

CODE: E-45
PROBLEM: Cooling Error

CODE: E-46
PROBLEM: Primary Open Error

CODE: E-47
PROBLEM: Door Open Error

CODE: E-51
PROBLEM: Sense Failure

CODE: E-52
PROBLEM: EEPROM Short Error

CODE: E-53
PROBLEM: Read/Write Error

CODE: E-54
PROBLEM: Zero Error

CODE: E-61
PROBLEM: Open Humidity Sensor Error

CODE: E-62
PROBLEM: Short Humidity Sensor Error

CODE: E-63
PROBLEM: T1 Max Time Humidity Sensor Error

CODE: E-71
PROBLEM: Steam Sensor Open Error

CODE: E-72
PROBLEM: Steam Sensor Short Error

CODE: E-81
PROBLEM: Communication Open Error

CODE: E-82
PROBLEM: Communication Short Error

CODE: E-83
PROBLEM: Communication Error

CODE: E-X1
PROBLEM: Additional Open Error

CODE: E-X2
PROBLEM: Additional Short Error

CODE: -SE-
PROBLEM: Key Short Error

CODE: TE
PROBLEM: Touch Communication Error

Maytag Washer Error Codes

If you’re looking for help fixing your Maytag Washer, look no further! Our comprehensive Maytag Washer error code guide will explain common issues, provide tips, and show you how to read your model’s error codes.

 

CODE: LOC or LC
PROBLEM: Control Lock has been activated
FIX: Touch the Control Lock button, or (on older models) determine which button activates control lock from your Owner’s Manual. Some models require you to press and hold the button.

CODE: dET
PROBLEM: Detergent cartridge not detected in the dispenser.
FIX: This is on select models. If you are using single-load doses of detergent, ignore this message. Ensure the dispenser cartridge is inserted correctly and the dispenser drawer is shut completely.

CODE: Int
PROBLEM: The cycle was paused or canceled.
FIX: The washer may take 20 to 30 minutes to stop spinning and drain, and will display this error code during that time. To remove the code, press pause or cancel button twice and the power button once. If the code is still displayed, unplug the washer or disconnect the power for one minute.

CODE: rL or F34
PROBLEM: Items were detected in the washer during the Clean Washer cycle.
FIX: Remove items from the drum and restart the Clean Washer cycle.

CODE: Sud or Sd
PROBLEM: There are too many suds in the washing machine.
FIX: The washer will not be able to spin out water with the excess suds. When “Sud” or “Sd” is displayed, the washer automatically extends the rinse time to remove the excess suds. During this time, the washer pauses the tumbling and adds water for additional rinsing. This pause allows the bubbles in the suds to break. This pause and rinsing are necessary and may occur several times to eliminate the suds.

CODE: F5 E2
PROBLEM: The door is not locking properly.
FIX: Check that there are no items blocking the door and it is closing completely. Press the Pause or Cancel button twice and the Power button once to clear the code.

CODE: F7 E1
PROBLEM: Indicates a motor speed sensing error
FIX: The motor can not achieve the correct speed for the cycle selection. Check that all the shipping bolts have been removed and the washer has not been overloaded

CODE: F8 E1 or LO FL
PROBLEM: The washer is sensing a low flow of water.
FIX: Check that the household water supply is turned on and both the cold and the hot water faucets or valves are fully open. The water inlet hoses are not kinked (learn more about How to check your Fill Hoses if your Washer is not Filling) There are no anti-flood hoses and controls in the water line connected to the washer (learn more about Should I use Flood Safe Devices on my Front Load Washer. Press the Pause or Cancel button twice and the Power button once to clear the code.

CODE: F8 E2
PROBLEM: Indicates there is a problem with the Dispenser System
FIX: This is on select models. Verify detergent drawer or detergent cartridge is not clogged with detergent.

CODE: F9 E1
PROBLEM: Indicates that drain times are longer than expected, typically over eight (8) minutes.
FIX: Make sure the drain hose is not kinked or clogged. Use the U-shaped drain hose form on the drain hose. The standpipe (drainpipe) height requirements are 96″ (244 cm) maximum and 39″ (99 cm) minimum.

CODE: Other F# E# code
PROBLEM: Indicates other error
FIX: Unplug the washer or disconnect the power for one minute and reconnect it again. Reselect the cycle and press Start.

Maytag Dryer Error Codes

If you’re looking for help fixing your Maytag Dryer, look no further! Our comprehensive Maytag Dryer error code guide will explain common issues, provide tips, and show you how to read your model’s error codes.

 

CODE: PF
PROBLEM: Power failure
FIX: A power failure occurred while the dryer was running. Press Start to continue the cycle or press Stop to clear the display. If this code frequently appears, check the power cord and replace it if it’s damaged.

CODE: F-01
PROBLEM: Main electronic control board failure
FIX: Unplug the dryer for 5 minutes and the plug the dryer back in. If the code reappears, replace the main electronic control board.

CODE: F-02
PROBLEM: User interface keypad failure
FIX: A stuck button on the user interface control board causes this code. If you can’t free the stuck key, replace the user interface control board.

CODE: F-22
PROBLEM: Exhaust thermistor failure
FIX: Unplug the dryer. Check the resistance of the exhaust thermistor (temperature sensor). It should measure about 10,000 ohms at room temperature. If the thermistor is defective, replace it.

CODE: F-23
PROBLEM: Exhaust thermistor failure
FIX: Unplug the dryer. Check the resistance of the exhaust thermistor (temperature sensor). It should measure about 10,000 ohms at room temperature. If the thermistor is defective, replace it.

CODE: F-26
PROBLEM: Drive motor failure
FIX: Unplug the dryer. Check the wiring connections between the main electronic control board and the drive motor. If the wiring connections are sound, replace the drive motor.

CODE: F-28
PROBLEM: Moisture sensor failure
FIX: Check the wiring harness connections between the moisture sensor and the main electronic control board. If the wiring connections are sound, replace the moisture sensor.

CODE: F29
PROBLEM: Moisture sensor failure
FIX: Check the wiring harness connections between the moisture sensor and the main electronic control board. If the wiring connections are sound, replace the moisture sensor.

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