Bosch Appliance Repair

Bosch Appliance Repair

Bosch Appliance Repair

Bosch Vent Hood Repair
Bosch Stove Repair
Bosch Trash Compactor Repair
Bosch Refrigerator Repair
Bosch Range Repair
Bosch Oven Repair
Bosch Ice Maker Repair Bosch Ice Machine Repair
Bosch Freezer Repair
Bosch Dishwasher Repair
Bosch Washer Repair
Bosch Dryer Repair
Bosch Wine Cooler Repair

If you have any problems with your Bosch dishwasher, or Bosch refrigerator, or any other large or small Bosch home appliance, you better avoid any DIY repair. Instead, you need to call at: (844) 385-5513 or make a service appointment request. My Appliance Repair Houston company is one of the leading home appliance repair service providers in Houston area. Our well-trained appliance repairmen are well qualified to perform all kinds of Bosch appliance repair. We have a great experience and quality in the handling a complete diagnosis, maintenance and repair of the following types and models of Bosch home appliance:If you are looking for home appliance that combines innovation, efficiency, quality, long-term performance and attractive exterior, then Bosch home appliance is definitely one of the most suitable solutions. Being a part of Bosch and Siemens Home Appliance Group based in Germany, Bosch has been providing high performance home and kitchen appliance for everyday use. When choosing large, small or kitchen appliance, Bosch provides some winning benefits and features like easy-to-clean and hуgienic kitchen appliance, energy efficiency refrigerators, appliance which performs without noise (Ecosilence Drive motor innovative mechanism) etc. But, sometimes even Bosch appliances like refrigerators, dishwashers, ice machines, washing machines, Bosch ovens, Bosch ice makers, Bosch vent hoods get broken, and, when this happens you would like to have the quickest local appliance repair in Houston.

· Bosch Dishwasher Repair;
· Bosch Vent Hood Repair;
· Bosch Stove Repair;
· Bosch Trash Compactor Repair;
· Bosch Refrigerator Repair;
· Bosch Range Repair;
· Bosch Oven Repair;
· Bosch Ice Maker Repair.
Besides the listed above Bosch appliance repair services in Houston, our seasoned Bosch repair technicians are always ready to eliminate any Bosch appliance repair issues within the first visit. Our repairmen always carry all the Bosch parts and details which are needed for a quick Bosch dishwasher repair, Bosch range repair, Bosch oven repair and other appliance of this brand. No matter how serious the breakdown of your Bosch appliance is, we will do our best to provide the same-day repair or replacement.

Choosing our Bosch dishwasher repair services or any other Bosch appliance repair provided by My Appliance Repair Houston company, you get a lot of advantages such as the same-day repair in any Houston area, free Bosch appliance repair estimates, free diagnostic in case of a complete repair by our technicians, the guarantee on all Bosch repairs and manufacturer replacement parts, quick and affordable Bosch dishwasher repair and other home appliance repair within the first visit to any Houston area, a clean home after all the repair works are finished, a guaranteed customer satisfaction. Call us once you noticed any problems with your Bosch appliance.

Bosch dishwasher problems

1. My Dishwasher Fills with Water Randomly

The first problem a lot of people have with their Bosch dishwashers is when they randomly fill up with clean water. If you don’t fix the problem, you’ll end up wasting a lot of water, and water might leak out onto the floor, causing a hazard.

This problem is caused by a faulty water inlet valve. What happens is the water inlet valve fails to close when it should and stays open, causing water to fill into your dishwasher even when the cycle ends and the dishwasher is switched off.

Here’s how to check and fix a faulty water inlet valve:

  1. Turn the power to your dishwasher off.
  2. Turn the water supply to your dishwasher off.
  3. Locate the water inlet valve (check your manual if necessary).
  4. Inspect the valve to see if it is jammed open or damaged in any way (sometimes the solenoids get jammed from buildups of debris).
  5. If the valve is damaged, it will need to be replaced as it is not repairable.
  6. If you do replace the valve, you’ll need to plug your dishwasher back in and test if the problem has been solved.

2. The Water in My Dishwasher Is Dirty

The next common problem people have with their Bosch dishwashers is when they fill up with dirty water. When this happens, your dishes won’t come out clean, and you run the risk of leaks, which can cause damage to your floor and hazards.

This problem is most commonly caused by a faulty check valve. The purpose of the check valve is to make sure water only flows in one direction, which stops dirty water from flowing into the dishwasher from your sink.

To inspect the check valve:

  1. Turn the power and the water supply off.
  2. Locate the check valve—in most Bosch dishwashers it will be located next to the drain pump. If you’re not sure, check your manual.
  3. Check the valve for any signs of damage.
  4. If the valve is faulty, it will need to be replaced.
  5. To replace the check valve, you need to remove the lower washing rack, remove the spray arm, and remove the filter screen basket and filter screen.
  6. Unscrew the cover and lift it out of the dishwasher.
  7. You can then remove the check valve and replace it with a new one.
  8. Once you’ve successfully replaced the check valve, you can put your dishwasher back together and check if the problem has been solved. If not, you will need to call a technician to come and have a look at your Bosch dishwasher.

3. My Dishwasher Won’t Drain

The next common problem people have with their Bosch dishwashers is when they stop draining properly. When this happens, dirty water and debris will clog your dishwasher, and your dishes won’t come out clean.

The easiest way to solve this problem is to clean out the drain. To do that:

  1. Open your dishwasher door and remove the bottom rack.
  2. Remove the spray arm and bottom cover if your dishwasher has one.
  3. If your dishwasher has a lot of water in it, you’ll need to manually drain it out with a container followed by a towel to soak up the last of the water.
  4. Locate the impeller and try to manually turn it around. If anything is getting in its way, remove it.
  5. If there is no obvious debris blocking the impeller from moving around, then you’ll need to get a technician to come and inspect your dishwasher.
  6. If the impeller cannot move around at all, this might mean it needs to be fully replaced.
  7. If you have a multimeter, if you can, also take the drain pump out of the dishwasher and check it for continuity. If it doesn’t have continuity, it will need to be replaced.

4. My Dishwasher Doesn’t Fill with Water

The next common problem people have with their Bosch dishwashers is when the dishwasher doesn’t fill with any water or doesn’t fill with enough water. When this happens, you won’t be able to wash your dishes properly.

This problem is also mainly caused by a faulty water inlet valve. The valve is difficult to repair, so your best option is to just replace it. To replace it:

  1. Turn the power and water off to the dishwasher.
  2. Locate the water inlet valve—it is usually located through the lower access panels.
  3. Once located, disconnect the wire harness and disconnect the water hose from it.
  4. You can then attach the new inlet valve, reattach the wires and water, and put your dishwasher back together.
  5. You can now test your dishwasher to see if the problem has been solved, and if not, you’ll need to call a qualified technician to come and inspect your dishwasher.

5. My Dishwasher Isn’t Drying Dishes

The final problem is when the dishwasher doesn’t properly dry the dishes after a cycle has ended.

This problem can be caused by several faulty components in your dishwasher and depends a lot on your specific model of Bosch dishwasher. The main faulty components are usually the vent motor, the heating element, and a faulty vent.

Here’s how to fix this problem:

  1. Turn the power off and the water off.
  2. Locate the dishwasher vent and check that it can open correctly. If not, it will need to be replaced.
  3. Check the vent fan motor. To check the fan motor, you need to locate it (check your manual if necessary) and then use a multimeter to test it for continuity. If it doesn’t have continuity, it will need to be replaced.
  4. If the fan motor is ok, then you should locate the heating element and check it with a multimeter for continuity. If it doesn’t have continuity, it is faulty and will need to be replaced.
  5. If you cannot find the cause of the problem or if you don’t have a multimeter, you will need to call a technician to come and inspect your Bosch dishwasher.

Bosch Trash Compactor Problems

Your trash compactor is one of the most underappreciated appliances in your home. Learn how to detect and fix some of the most common problems.

Trash compactor in the kitchen

Your trash compactor can make dealing with household waste so much easier, but not when it isn’t working properly. Few things are more frustrating than having your trash compactor or other garbage disposal system go on the fritz.

While your American Home Shield:registered: home warranty can cover repair or replacement of your trash compactor, it’s always simplest and easiest if you can troubleshoot and repair trash compactor problems on your own.

These solutions to common trash compactor problems will help you avoid waiting on a repair and the frustration that comes with realizing you could have fixed a simple problem yourself and saved some money.

Your Compactor Is Making Weird Noises
If your trash compactor has started making loud noises, like banging, thumping, squealing or whining, the problem may be the drive gear. Turn off power to the unit, then remove the bottom cover to locate the drive gear, which has plastic teeth. Breakage or wear on these teeth could mean it’s time to replace it. Check for damage to the power screw sockets, the motor gear and the chain while you’re at it. The motor gear, which is connected to the drive shaft, also has plastic teeth which can break. Make sure to check that the chain has the right amount of tension — about half an inch of deflection — especially if you are replacing it. Lubricate all gears before putting your trash compactor back together.

Banging, crashing or whining noises could also be the result of a faulty directional or top limit switch. This switch can be found inside the top of the unit. Shut off power to the unit, remove it from your cabinet if it’s built-in, and unscrew the top panel. Verify that the tab on the ram is positioned to activate the switch lever. Use a multimeter to check the switch for continuity. When activated, the switch should have no continuity; if it does, replace it.

If that’s not the problem, place the ram in the top position, and check the power nuts. Tape the switch in place to keep it from breaking while you perform this check. If you can’t move the ram to its top position, place the unit on its side and take off the bottom panel. Check the power nuts for damage, then lubricate them.

Your Compactor Won’t Start
A trash compactor that won’t start may have problems with the start switch, the drive motor, the foot pedal or the directional switch. Locate the start switch behind the control panel if your compactor powers on via a button on the control panel, or in the drawer if it powers on via foot pedal. Make sure the contacts on the switch are undamaged and are not corroded. If you have a foot-pedal-activated compactor, make sure it’s lined up right to activate the switch when pressed. Consult your compactor’s wiring schematic and use a multimeter to check the continuity of the switch; it should show continuity when activated, but not when at rest.

To check your compactor’s drive motor, shut off power to the unit and remove it from the cabinet. Take off the bottom panel and disconnect the wires from the motor, taking care to remember which wires hooked up to which terminals. Use your multimeter to check for continuity in the centrifugal switch and the motor windings. The readings should show almost no resistance in the centrifugal switch and a few ohms of resistance in the motor windings.

Check the directional switch by removing the top panel to find it, as described above. Consult your unit’s wiring schematic to determine which terminals to test for continuity. Usually, terminals C and NC should have continuity when not activated, and terminals C and NO should have continuity when activated.

If your compactor turns on via foot pedal, pull out the drawer and make sure the foot pedal mounting screws are tight. Check that the activator lever is coming into contact with the switch.

The Ram Gets Stuck
If the ram is stuck in a down position, open the bottom panel and check the drive gear. Make sure that the chain has the appropriate half-inch of deflection. If there are no problems with the drive gear, check the directional switch. You can lay the unit on its side and manually turn the drive gear to raise the ram. You can remove the top panel and the ram mounting brackets to remove the ram from your unit. Check the switch terminals for continuity and make sure that they aren’t stuck open or closed. They can become welded open or closed over time.

With the ram in an up position, check the power nuts for damage. These are located on the sides of the ram. Replace them if they are worn or broken, and lubricate them before reassembling your compactor. Take care not to break the directional switch while manipulating the ram; it’s a good idea to tape it, as it can break easily.

It Keeps Running After the Cycle Ends
If your compactor keeps running after the cycle ends, it could need a new top limit/directional switch or a new start switch. Locate these as described above, and use your unit’s wiring schematics to check their continuity with a multimeter. The top limit/directional switch should have no continuity when activated. The start switch should show continuity only in the start position, but it may show continuity in the off position too, if it is defective.

It Won’t Stay On to Complete a Cycle
If your trash compactor won’t stay on long enough to complete a cycle, you may need to check and replace the top limit/directional switch or the drive motor. The cycle selector switch could also be the issue. The cycle selector switch is located on the control panel. You will need to remove the unit from the cabinet and check its wiring schematics to determine which terminals to check for continuity. If there is no continuity when the switch is set to normal, you should replace it.

We’ve already discussed locating and testing the top limit/directional switch. To locate and remove the drive motor, take off the bottom panel and the bolts on the motor mounting plate. Loosen and remove the drive chain, motor gear and drive gear. Disconnect any connecting wires from their terminals, as well as the wire harness connector. Then take off the motor mounting bolts and remove the motor itself in order to replace it.

The Drawer Won’t Open or Won’t Stay Closed
When your trash compactor’s drawer won’t open or won’t close, usually it’s a problem with either the drawer rollers or the foot pedal. The drawer rollers may have become damaged or warped, or they may simply need to be greased. To check them, lift the drawer out of its opening and inspect the rollers for damage. If they need to be replaced, you may need to use a socket to take off the hex nuts securing the drawer frame. You may also need to remove the unit’s feet. Make sure your rollers are well-lubricated before reassembling your unit.

If the rollers look good, check the foot pedal mounting screws. Tighten them if they are loose. Inspect the foot pedal and drawer catch for damage, and ensure that the foot pedal is aligned to come into contact with the drawer catch.

Sometimes, fixing your own appliances is just too much trouble, especially when you’re busy with work, kids, friends and hobbies. American Home Shield can help. Our home warranty coverage options are designed to make it easy to fit repairs into your busy life. Call us today and get the help you need to repair and maintain your home’s systems and appliances.

Bosch Refrigerator Problems

Bosch is a long-running manufacturer of various household appliances, including washing machines, dishwashers, stoves, and of course refrigerators. Bosch is generally known for producing reliable products; but even with the most reliable technology, there’s always a chance for something to go wrong.

It’s not too common to experience issues with a Bosch refrigerator, but there are a few issues that can potentially happen. These include the fridge being unable to cool, the fridge making a loud noise, the fridge being unable to defrost, or problems with the fridge’s various dispensers.

Today, we’ll be taking a quick look at some of the issues you might encounter with your Bosch refrigerator, and explain why they happen and how you can deal with them.

Bosch Refrigerator Is Not Cooling

Let’s address the biggest issue first. Obviously, the point of a fridge is to keep your food cool, so if it’s not able to do that then you should make it a priority to get it fixed. Luckily, some of the more common issues that can cause your fridge to stop cooling can be easily corrected.

The first thing you should do if you notice your refrigerator isn’t cooling is to check the condenser coils. The condenser coils are usually located near the base or on the back of the refrigerator and are the part of the fridge’s cooling system that is responsible for dissipating heat from the coolant.

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Over time, dust and debris get trapped in the condenser coils, which makes it a lot harder for the fridge to cool itself properly. If the problem gets back enough, the fridge might stop cooling entirely. Fortunately, you can solve this problem simply by cleaning the condenser coils.

Another common cause of a Bosch refrigerator being unable to cool is the failure of some of the cooling system’s fans. This could be the condenser fan, which moves air across the condenser coils, or the evaporator fan, which does the same for the evaporator coils. If the motors of either of these fans fail, you’ll have to replace them.

Other less common reasons why your refrigerator might not be cooling include the failure of the start relay, the temperature control thermostat, the start capacitor, the temperature control board, the compressor, the thermistor, or the main control board.

Bosch Refrigerator Is Making A Loud Noise

On the other hand, perhaps your fridge is working fine but is making a loud noise. It can be pretty annoying if your fridge is constantly whining or grinding while you’re trying to work in the kitchen. So, what’s the most common cause of such a noise?

Usually, the issue is with one of the fridge’s fans, since for the most part, the fans are the only things that actually move inside your fridge. There are two main fans to check out when trying to diagnose the source of your fridge’s noise, those being the evaporator fan and condenser fan.

If the problem is indeed one of your fans, the noise could be coming from either the blade or the motor. Try turning the blades by hand and see if they turn freely; if not, check to see if there’s something obstructing the blades or if there’s something rubbing against them.

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It could also be that the motors for these fans are starting to wear down, as this can also cause a lot of noise. Unfortunately, if the motor is indeed the problem, you’ll have to replace the fan and its motor entirely.

There are other components of your fridge as well that can make a noise when they start to fail. It could be your fridge’s compressor, although fridge compressors, in general, are pretty reliable and can usually last for years without any problems.

If you notice your fridge is particularly noisy when the ice maker is filling, it could be the water inlet valve that is causing the problem. If the water inlet valve is the problem, you’ll have to replace it with a new one.

Bosch Refrigerator Water Dispenser Is Not Working

Not all Bosch refrigerators come with a water dispenser, but if yours does, this is another component that can potentially fail.

The two most common reasons why your fridge’s water dispenser might stop working are a blockage in the water tube or a problem with the water inlet valve. It’s not terribly rare for ice to sometimes build up in the water tube, which will obviously prevent water from flowing through it.

To figure out if your water tube is blocked, disconnect the tube and try blowing through it. If you can’t get any air through it, there’s probably some ice trapped in there. Let the ice thaw out, and consider raising the temperature of your freezer a little bit to prevent this from happening in the future.

If you determine that your water inlet valve is the source of the issue, then you’ll have to have it replaced. The water dispenser may also fail to work if the water supply’s pressure is too low; ideally, the water pressure at the valve should be around 20 psi or so.

Other potential reasons for this issue include the failure of the dispenser control boarddispenser switch, or door switch (since the water dispenser won’t work if it thinks the door is open). It could also be a clogged water filter, so make sure you change your filters every 6 months or so.

Bosch Refrigerator Ice Maker Is Not Working

The ice maker obviously isn’t an essential component of your fridge, but if your fridge is equipped with one then it’s certainly preferable to have it in working order. If your ice maker has stopped working, there could be a few reasons as to why.

The first reason could be that your freezer simply isn’t cold enough to produce ice efficiently. For the ice maker to work correctly, the temperature inside shouldn’t be higher than about 10 degrees Fahrenheit (-12 degrees Celsius).

The problem could also be with the water inlet valve. If the valve fails, both your water dispenser and ice maker will stop working. Check the water valve, and replace it if necessary.

There could also be problems with the thermostat within the ice maker, the ice maker control board, or the ice maker assembly itself.

Ice Dispenser Is Not Working

First off, we think we should provide a little bit of clarification; the ice dispenser is NOT the same thing as the ice maker. The ice maker is what actually makes the ice, and the ice dispenser is what delivers that ice to you. If your fridge is able to make ice but can’t actually dispense it to you, the problem is likely with your ice dispenser.

It’s not very common at all for a fridge’s ice dispenser to fail, but there are a few reasons as to how this can happen. It could be a problem with the dispenser’s switch, or with the control board for the dispenser. It could also be one of the motors associated with the dispenser, the auger that pushes the ice down the chute, or the blade that crushes the ice.

If any one of these components has failed, the only real solution is to replace it.

Bosch Refrigerator Is Not Defrosting

Occasionally, you might have to defrost your freezer to prevent too much ice from building up inside it. This can make your freezer work less efficiently. Your Bosch fridge can run an automatic defrost cycle, but if certain components have failed then this might not work.

If your fridge’s defrost cycle isn’t working, you’ll want to check both the defrost control board and the defrost timer. If one or both of these things aren’t working, you’ll have to replace them before you can attempt another defrost cycle.

Other possible causes include a failed defrost thermostatdefrost heater assembly, or main control board.

Bosch Range Problems

If you’re looking for help fixing your Bosch Range, look no further! Our comprehensive Bosch Range Troubleshooting guide will explain common issues, provide tips, and show you how to read your model’s error codes.

 

Bosch Oven not heating 
The igniter is the most commonly defective part for an oven not heating. The igniter has two main functions. First, the igniter draws electrical current through the oven safety valve to open it. Second, the igniter gets hot enough to glow and ignite the gas in the oven burner. If the igniter gets weak, it will fail to open the safety valve correctly. If the valve does not open, the oven will not heat. To determine if the igniter is defective, observe the igniter when the oven is on. If the igniter glows for more than 90 seconds without igniting the gas flame, this indicates that the igniter is too weak to open the valve. If the igniter is weak, replace it. If the igniter does not glow at all, use a multimeter to test the igniter for continuity. If the igniter does not have continuity, replace it.

Bosch Oven doesn’t bake evenly 
If the bake element is burned out, the oven will only be heated by the broil element. This will cause the oven to heat unevenly. When the bake element is heating properly, it glows red hot. If the element does not glow red, this indicates that the element is not heating. Often, if the element has burned out, it will be visibly damaged. Inspect the bake element for holes or blisters. To determine if the bake element has burned out, use a multimeter to test the element for continuity. If the bake element does not have continuity, replace it.

Bosch Oven broiler not working 
The broiler element may have burned out. When the broil element is heating properly, it glows red hot. If the element does not glow red, this indicates that the element is not heating. Often, if the element has burned out, it will be visibly damaged. Inspect the broil element for holes or blisters. To determine if the broil element has burned out, use a multimeter to test the element for continuity. If the broil element does not have continuity, replace it.

Bosch Stove heating element not working 
The surface element board has relays that regulate the power supply to the burners. If one or more of the relays fails, the surface element won’t work. If two or more burners fail at the same time, this indicates that the surface element board is likely at fault. If only one surface element won’t work, use a multimeter to test the element for continuity. If the surface element has continuity, the surface element board might be defective.

Bosch Stove burner won’t light 
The spark modules provides power to each surface burner spark electrode. If the burner is produces a weak spark, or if the burner sparks intermittently, the spark module might be defective. Before replacing the spark module, first check the spark electrode and the spark wire. If the spark electrode and spark wire are not at fault, the spark module is likely defective. If the spark module is defective, replace it.

Bosch Oven temperature not accurate
When the bake element is heating properly, it glows red hot. If the element does not glow red, this indicates that the element is not heating. Often, if the heating element has burned out, it will be visibly damaged. Inspect the heating element for holes or blisters. To determine if the bake element has burned out, use a multimeter to test the element for continuity. If the bake element does not have continuity, replace it.

Bosch Oven Problems

Because we rely on ovens to cook our food, it can be very annoying when they break down. Not only do we have to find alternative cooking methods, but we also have to deal with the hassle and expense of repairs. However, many common oven problems can be fixed relatively easily.

This article provides step-by-step instructions for fixing some of the most common Bosch oven problems. From replacing a burned-out light bulb to cleaning a dirty door seal, these tips can help to keep your oven in top condition. So, if you’re dealing with a broken oven, take a look at this article before you call a professional. You may be able to fix the problem yourself.

1. Oven won’t turn on

One potential reason why an oven may not turn on is that the power supply has been interrupted. Check to see if the circuit breaker has been tripped or if there is a blown fuse. If so, reset the breaker or replace the fuse, and then try to turn on the oven again.

Another common cause for an oven not turning on is a faulty igniter. The igniter is what lights the gas in the oven, so if it is not working correctly, the oven will not heat up. To test the igniter, see if it is glowing; if it does not glow brightly, or does not light the gas after 90 seconds, it needs to be replaced. You can also test the igniter for continuity with a multimeter.

Finally, a damaged bake element can also prevent an oven from turning on. The bake element is located at the bottom of the oven, and it is responsible for generating heat. If it is cracked or broken, it will need to be replaced to fix the problem.

2. Oven light is out

If your oven light is out, there are a few potential causes. First, check the light bulb to see if it needs to be replaced. If the bulb is intact and screwed in tightly, the problem may be with the socket or wiring. If you’re comfortable doing so, you can investigate the socket and wiring yourself. Otherwise, it’s best to call an electrician.

Another potential cause is a blown fuse. Check your fuse box to see if a fuse has blown, and replace it if necessary. Once you’ve checked all of these potential causes, your oven light should be back up and running.

3. Oven time not setting

One of the most common problems with ovens is that the clock or timer doesn’t work. There are a few possible reasons for this. The first is that the power cord is not plugged in all the way; the second is that the power outlet is not working; and the third is that there is a problem with the oven itself.

To fix this, start by checking that the power cord is plugged in securely. If it is, then check the power outlet by plugging in another appliance. If the outlet works, then there may be a problem with the oven itself and you will need to call a repairperson.

4. Oven not heating

One of the most common problems with ovens is that they stop heating up. This can be caused by a variety of issues, including a faulty heating element, a blown fuse or an issue with the temperature. In most cases, the problem can be resolved relatively easily.

First, check to see if the heating element is still in place and functioning properly. Next, check the fuse box and replace any blown fuses. Finally, adjust the temperature to see if that resolves the issue.

If the oven still isn’t heating up, it’s possible that there is a more serious problem with the wiring. In this case, it’s best to call a qualified technician for further assistance.

5. Oven not baking evenly

There are several reasons why an oven might not bake evenly. One common cause is a build-up of dirt and grease on the heating elements. This can insulate the elements and prevent them from adequately conducting heat.

Another possibility is that the oven door is not sealing properly. If there is even a small gap, heat can escape, resulting in uneven baking. The final and most serious cause is a problem with the oven’s thermostat. This can cause the temperature to fluctuate, making it impossible to achieve consistent results.

Fortunately, there are a few simple steps that can be taken to fix these problems. First, make sure to clean the oven regularly, paying special attention to the heating elements. If the door is not closing properly, check the gasket for damage and replace it if necessary. Finally, if the thermostat appears to be malfunctioning, call a qualified technician for repairs.

6. Broiler not working

There are a few reasons why your oven broiler might not be working. The first reason could be that the broiler element is not heating up. If this is the case, you’ll need to replace the element.

Another possibility is that the igniter is not working. The igniter is what sparks the gas in the oven, so if it’s not working, the gas won’t ignite and the broiler won’t turn on. You’ll need to replace the igniter if this is the problem.

Finally, the gas valve could be defective. If the gas valve is not open, gas will not flow to the oven and the broiler will not turn on. If you think this might be the problem, you’ll need to call a qualified technician to replace the valve.

The bottom line 

A broken Bosch oven can be frustrating, but by following the above steps, you’ll be closer to a working oven. While homeowners can often fix issues with Bosch ovens themselves, don’t hesitate to contact a qualified technician for more serious problems or just an extra helping hand with the above solutions.

Bosch Ice Maker Problems

Bosch makes a wide range of refrigerators, with many of them coming with automated ice makers. If your Bosch refrigerator ice maker is not working, there is usually a relatively easy solution, such as defrosting the ice tube or replacing the water inlet valve. With this guide to help you, there is likely no need to call a trained technician, as you should be able to fix the problem yourself!

Remember to disconnect the power to the refrigerator if accessing electrical components.

1. Is the water on?

Before we go any further, verify that the water to the refrigerator is turned on and the water line is connected to the refrigerator. Also, note that if the refrigerator has been recently installed, it can take the ice maker 24 hours to begin to make ice.

2. Is the ice maker turned on?

Most ice makers have an On/Off switch, and with a lot of Bosch refrigerators, the switch is located in an area that is hard to find. Even if you are aware of where the ice maker On/Off switch is, checking it has not been turned off should be one of the first things you do to find out why your ice maker is not working.

If you are unsure where the On/Off switch is with your Bosch refrigerator, check inside the ice maker by removing the ice bucket. If you cannot see the switch, feel underneath the ice tray or bucket, as some models have the switch hidden away under one of those components.

Checking that removable ice maker components are put back correctly may also solve your ice maker problem.

3. Check the water filter

If your Bosch refrigerator has a removable water filter, the filter may need to be changed, or it may not have been installed correctly. The water filter should be changed every six months. If the filter is older than six months, it has likely become clogged, which restricts water flow, and may disable the ice maker.

Make sure to follow the filter installation instructions when installing a new filter. If the filter is not installed correctly, the ice maker will not work, or there could be air in the water line that prevents the ice maker from working correctly.

4. Check the freezer temperature

For the ice maker to work, the freezer temperature needs to be below 10 degrees Fahrenheit (-12 degrees Celsius), with the recommended temperature being between 0 and 5 degrees Fahrenheit (-18 to -15 degrees Celsius).

If the refrigerator and freezer are too warm, you may need to clean debris off the condenser coils at the base of the refrigerator or clear frost and ice buildup off the evaporator fan at the back of the freezer.

5. Is there air in the line?

If the refrigerator has been recently installed, or you have just replaced the water filter, there may be air in the water line. Dispense water for three minutes to clear the water line.

6. Is there ice buildup in the ice maker?

Sometimes an ice maker will not work because of ice buildup. Ice buildup could be in the ice bucket, dispenser chute, or around the ice maker housing. The water supply line may also be frozen, preventing water from getting to the ice maker. However, a frozen water line is rare and is often caused by low water pressure.

Ice buildup can be defrosted using a hot dishcloth, a hairdryer, a defrost tool, or the defrost function if your model has one.

If using a hairdryer to defrost ice, set it to a low heat to avoid damaging parts of the refrigerator, such as coils, wiring, or any plastic components. Another option is to purchase a frozen water line tool to clear a frozen water line without risking damage from the heat of a hairdryer.

7. Check the water pressure

The ice maker receives water through the water inlet valve. For the water inlet valve to work properly and supply water to the ice maker, it requires 20 to 120 psi.

To check the water pressure, remove the water inlet line from the back of the refrigerator, hold it over a bucket or container, and then turn the water on and check the flow. If water trickles out, you likely have a water pressure issue. The water pressure could also be tested with a water pressure gauge.

8. Check the water inlet valve

A defective or clogged water inlet valve is one of the more common causes of a defective ice maker. The valve is responsible for supplying water to the dispenser and ice maker. Over time, the water inlet valve can become clogged with mineral deposits and fail to open, which prevents the ice maker and water dispenser from working. If the water inlet valve is clogged, it will usually make an unusual humming sound as it struggles to open. Poor water pressure will also affect the water inlet valve.

The water inlet valve is usually located at the rear of the refrigerator, accessible through the rear access panel. If the water inlet valve is clogged, it should be replaced rather than attempting to fix it.

The water inlet valve can also fail electrically. A multimeter can be used to test the valve for continuity (a continuous electrical path). If the valve fails the continuity test, it will need to be replaced.

9. Is the door switch defective or disconnected?

Bosch refrigerators have a door switch that stops the ice maker from working when the refrigerator door is open. If the refrigerator has been recently installed, the door switch may have been disconnected during the installation process. A faulty door switch may stop the fridge from cooling or disable the light in the refrigerator.

Like the water inlet valve, the door switch can be tested with a multimeter for continuity to determine if it has failed and needs to be replaced. Access instructions for the door switch will depend on your particular model. Refer to the refrigerators service manual if you have trouble locating the door switch.

10. Other components to check

If the above solutions have failed to fix your ice maker, the following components, while less likely, could be causing the issue. If you are unfamiliar with refrigeration repair, it may be time to call a trained technician after all.

  • Faulty dispenser switch
  • Defective ice level control board
  • Defective ice mold thermostat
  • Faulty ice maker switch
  • Defective ice maker module
  • Damaged main control board

Bosch Dishwasher Error Codes

Bosch dishwashers have a built-in diagnostic system which lets you know if there are any issues with the dishwasher, the errors it gives, can indicate if you need a replacement or a check-up, but not many of us know what they mean, so here is what you need to know.

Service Code E0

It is displayed when you entered diagnostics test mode and retrieved fault codes from memory.

Error Code E1 Or E2

it is displayed when there was an issue with the temperature sensor or thermistor, in order to access the sensor you need to remove the dishwasher front cover and locate thermistor under the tub.

Error Code E3

it is displayed when the dishwasher cant fill with water.

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If the dishwasher’s water supply is fully open but the dishwasher cannot fill with water then turn off the water supply and unplug the dishwasher.

Remove the water fill line and verify that the water inlet valve is connected. If so, replace the water valve.

Don’t try to clean the screen as it can make the problem worse because it can get stuck open from gunk and either flood or overfill.

Error Code E4

This error related to water flow sensor, most likely caused by calcium builds-up on the sensor wheel.

it’s just can’t spin and unable to measure how much water entering the dishwasher. In this case you just need to replace the sensor. There is no way to clean it.

Error Code E5

it is displayed when the dishwasher is overfilled with water, in order to check you must unplug and re-plug the dishwasher if the problem continues, check the float switch.

Error Code E6

it is displayed when there was a fault in the Aqua Sensor, the aqua sensor is responsible for detecting whenever the water is clean or dirty and controls the water turbidity.

Error Code E9

It is displayed when an issue with the heating element occurred. In some cases, it may be caused by solder joint on the heater relay on the control board.

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Error Code E15

This error code means, that your dishwasher leaking and triggered a flood sensor. It can be caused by one of the water hoses been slipped off or one of the clamps that holds these hoses got weak.

You need to pull the dishwasher out from its place and remove side panels to see where its leaking from. This video can help to identify your cause of leakage.

Error Code E22

This error caused when there is residual water left in the sump due to blockage of the fine filter.

Error Code E24 Or E25

It is displayed when there was a drain error. Usually due to cloggage in drain pump.

If you can hear pump running but not draining, check back valve or check valve to make sure nothing got stuck in there.

if you hear pump humming and not spinning, then drain pump impeller jammed by broken glass or bones, or something else.

Service Code H24

24 hour delay, unplug the dishwasher then press and hold the start button for around 10 seconds to reset it once turned back on

Bosch Dishwasher Troubleshooting:

Your Bosch dishwasher can run a test cycle that will quickly go through each stage of a wash program in order to find out at what point a fault is occurring.

It will only give you a general idea of where the problem is, but its a useful first step in diagnosing the issue.

The steps to start the test cycle vary depending on what model you have but the basic method is similar across the range.

It might be that your dishwasher doesn’t have the same button labeling as described in the steps below.

In that case, try holding down the buttons which have similar names. After a little trial and error, you’ll find the right combination.

  • Make sure the dishwasher is switched off.
  • Press and hold the Power Scrub Plus and Regular Wash buttons
  • Turn on the dishwasher, then release the two buttons.
  • The light above each of these buttons should flash
  • Start the test cycle by pressing the Power Scrub Plus and Regular Wash buttons again
  • The test program will begin and an error code will be displayed at the end of the cycle if a fault has been detected

Fault Codes E01, E02, E03, E04, E05

Cause: The E01, E02, E03, E04, E05 faults codes mean that the dishwasher has suffered a power module failure.

The programming of replacement power modules has been locked down by Bosch, so in the event of an error code of this type, it’s recommended that you contact a Bosch approved dishwasher engineer.

Entering Service Test Program

Controls contain codes for factory tests, customer service test programs, dishwasher configuration and error codes.

Consult test programs and error codes for your dishwasher before using the codes from this manual.

Bosch Dishwasher Service Test

While pushing (and holding) any two wash cycle buttons, turn the dishwasher on with the on/off switch.

After releasing the buttons, LED “B” will be lit and LED “C” will flash, confirming you’re in the special programs menu.

To enter the test program, push button “B” repeatedly until the digital display shows “P1” or until LED “C” is lit. Push button “C” to start the program — LED “C” will blink.

The steps will show on the digital display (e.g.”S:01″) – push button “B” to skip a step.

Stored error codes will show on the digital display and LED’s (see Error code displays). The test program can only be stopped / reset by pushing the on/off button – it can’t be done by turning off the power.

Error codes can be found using the customer service test program. Most dishwashers will show the following error codes.

For dishwashers without digital displays, the “LED’s” column will show the light displays for each error code.

Bosch Error Codes explanation

If there is more than one error code, the display shows the one with the higher priority.

Dishwasher controls store error codes from the last wash cycle (units w/o digital displays) or from the last eight wash cycles (units w/ digital displays).

Error code E5 depends on the model, either safety float water level reached or motor speed error. Check the test program for the particular model.

  • If error code E5 is safety float water level reached, check the float and float switch, check if the water is in the base and check if the water inlet valve has re-seated after closing.

To clear error codes, run the customer service test program.

Bosch Fridge Freezer Error Codes

If your Bosch Fridge Freezer is displaying error codes then the table below can give you further assistance to solve the repair. If you are unsure what the error codes mean or if you require further assistance then please feel free to contact Pacifica and talk to a professional that can come to your home to repair your Bosch Fridge Freezer.

Error Code
Fault Description
E01
Refrigerator compartment temperature sensor is faulty
E02
Freezer compartment temperature sensor is faulty
E03
Temperature-controlled drawer temperature sensor is faulty
E10
Main control board module is faulty
E11
The display control module is faulty
E15
Ambient temperature sensor is faulty
E20
Communication error between the main control board module and display control module
E21
Communication error between the display control module and ice and water dispenser control module
E
Electronics have detected fault

Bosch Oven Error Codes

If your Bosch oven is displaying error codes which you are unsure of then please see the table below of information we have provided to give you further assistance to solve the repair.

Error Code Fault Description
ER1 Temperature sensor failure
ER2 Faulty mains connection
ER4 Temperature sensor failure
ER6 Door lock faulty
ER7 Door release mechanism faulty
F32 Temperature sensor failure
F41 Faulty latch motor or its wiring
F42 Faulty or jammed lower oven door or latch switches
F43 Faulty latch motor or its wiring
F44 Faulty latch motor or its wiring
F45 Defective or jammed upper oven door or latch switches

If you are continuing to have issues with your Tumble Dryer, then please be sure to contact Glotech Repairs to organise an appointment with our qualified engineers. Some repairs need to be carried out by a trained professional, so if you are about to attempt a repair yourself, please be extremely careful and only do so if you are qualified.

Bosch Cooktop Error Codes

Error Codes Description
F0
1. Gray code rotary selector communication error 

2. Cooking/frying sensor module communication error

3. Island master/slave communication error

4. Defective component

5. Replace faulty components

F1
1.Touch Control NTC fault (only for Gaggenau) 

2.The NTC in the intrinsic temperature monitoring system is sending illogical measurement values

3.Replace Touch Control

4.Allow appliance to cool down.

5.Cancel fault message by pressing a touch key.

F2
1.Touch Control switching off due to overheating. 

2.Touch Control temperature above 105 °C See operating instructions (no fault).

F3
1.Cooking sensor fault, Faulty wiring Check all lines and plug connections 

2.Defective cooking sensor

4.Replace cooking sensor

5.Defective cooking sensor module

6.Replace cooking sensor module See operating instructions

F4
1.TouchControl switching off due to overheating 

2.TouchControl temperature above 120 °C Allow appliance to cool down.

3.Cancel fault message by pressing a touch key. See operating instructions (no fault).

F6
1.Temperature increase at the sensor does not correspond to the selected values 

2.Defective regulator module Deep fryer:

– No oil, or too little (protector switched off)

– Fill with oil and switch protector on

3. Defective heater

– Check heater and replace if necessary

– No power supply to the heater (defective leads or electronics)

– Check power supply and if necessary repair leads or replace electronics

4. Sensor defective or not correctly fixed in place

– Check sensor and replace if necessary

5. Defective regulator module

– Check regulator module and replace if necessary

6.Defective heater

F7
1.Frying sensor fault 

2.Faulty wiring

– Check all lines and plug connections Frying sensor temperature too high

– Allow frying sensor cooking zone to cool

2. Faulty wiring

– Check all lines and plug connections

3.Defective frying sensor

– Replace cooking zone frying sensor

4.Defective frying sensor module

– Replace frying sensor module See operating instructions and deep fryer

5. Sensor open/short-circuit or incorrect value

– Replace sensor

F8
Cooking time limiter 

1.After a while, the cooking zone was switched off automatically by the cooking time limiter The cooking zone can be operated again immediately. The time depends on the selected heat setting (1 to 10 hours without setting change). See User manual (no faults).

2.Check all lines and plug connections

F9
 1.Piezo Control fault 

– Replace Piezo Panel

2.Data transfer fault between Piezo Panel and control/display module

– Replace control/display module

ErXY
 1.Internal Touch Control fault 

2. Not relevant for fault rectification XY corresponds to a number from 00 to 99

– Note the following special cases

3.Cooking zones next to the control module in

– Allow appliance to cool down. operation for long periods and using high power

Er21
 1.Signal Control module overheating 

– Press the touch key to switch off the acoustic signal

2. Electrical link between two touch keys

– Remove electronics and check all touch keys (visual inspection). Refit electronics correctly

Er22
 1.Touch key fault, Electrical link between two touch keys 

– Remove electronics and check all touch keys (visual inspection). Refit electronics correctly, Defective touch key

– If the fault is still present, replace the Defective touch key

– If the fault is still present, replace the electronics

Er25
 Faulty electronics connection 

1. Faulty electronics connection

– Check the connections 1. Flat conductor between Touch Control and relay circuit board incorrectly plugged

– Check that flat conductor is plugged straight

Er26
 Relay circuit board fault and firmly 

1. Flat conductor between Touch Control and relay circuit board incorrectly plugged

– Check that flat conductor is plugged straight

2. Defective relay circuit board

– Replace complete Touch Control

Er38
 1.Hall sensor fault at TwistPad/TipPad, Control knob incorrectly positioned 

– Fit the control knob in the correct position

3 TipPad incorrectly operated (TipPad turning handle pushed like TwistPad turning handle)

– Operate TipPad correctly (tip function) – see operating instructions (not a fault) Defective TwistPad/TipPad

– Disconnect the appliance from the mains for 30 seconds and then switch on again

– If the fault has still not been rectified, replace the TwistPad/TipPad Defective TwistPad/TipPad

– Disconnect the appliance from the mains for 30 seconds and then switch on again

– If the fault has still not been rectified, replace the TwistPad/TipPad

– Check the mains connections

Er42
 Power supply fault 

1.Faulty voltage

– Replace the electronics module Disconnect the appliance from the mains immediately

2. Excess voltage in the electronics due to a faulty connection or wiring fault

U240
U400
1.Excess voltage 

– Check the mains connection and wiring Disconnect the appliance from the mains immediately

– Check the mains connection and wiring No display or function when the main switch is activated

2. Excess voltage in the electronics due to a Safety switch-off due to excess voltage faulty connection or wiring fault

3. No mains voltage The safety switch-off function protects the appliance in the event of a faulty connection

Bosch Side-by-side Refrigerator Error Codes

These error code explanations can help you diagnose a problem with your Bosch side-by-side refrigerator.

Error Code Condition DIY Advice
E01 Refrigerator compartment temperature sensor is defective Check/Repair
Unplug the refrigerator and reconnect any loose connections on the wire harness on the temperature sensor for the refrigerator compartment, which is in the upper right corner of the refrigerator. Replace the wire harness if damaged. If the wire harness connection is okay, replace the refrigerator compartment temperature sensor.
E02 Freezer compartment temperature sensor is defective Check/Repair
Unplug the refrigerator and reconnect any loose connections on the wire harness on the temperature sensor for the freezer. Replace the wire harness if damaged. If the wire harness connection is okay, replace the freezer compartment temperature sensor.
E03 Temperature-controlled drawer temperature sensor is defective Check/Repair
Unplug the refrigerator and remove the temperature-controlled refrigerator drawer. The temperature sensor is on the right side of the refrigerator compartment liner. Remove the sensor cover reconnect any loose connections on the wire harness on the temperature sensor for the drawer. Reconnect the wire harness if loose. Replace the wire harness if damaged. If the wire harness is okay, replace the temperature controlled drawer temperature sensor.
E15 Ambient temperature sensor is defective Check/Repair
The ambient temperature sensor is an internal component of the display control module. Unplug the refrigerator for 3 minutes to reset the display control module. If the E15 code returns you restore power, replace the display control module.
E10 Main control board module is defective Check/Repair
Unplug the refrigerator for 3 minutes to reset the main control board module. If the E10 code returns after you restore electrical power, replace the main control board module.
E11 Display control module is defective Check/Repair
Unplug the refrigerator for 3 minutes to reset the display control module. If the E11 code returns after you restore electrical power, replace the display control module.
E20 Communication error between the main control board module and the display control module Check/Repair
Unplug the refrigerator and reconnect any loose connections on the wire harness for the main control board module and the display control module. Replace the wire harness if damaged. Check the main control board module and display control module for burnt spots on the circuit boards or visible damage. Replace the main control board module or display control module if damaged.
E21 Communication error between display control module and the ice and water dispenser control module Check/Repair
Unplug the refrigerator and reconnect any loose connections on the wire harness on the display control module and the ice and water dispenser control module. Replace the wire harness if damaged. Check the display control module and ice and water dispenser control module for burnt spots on the circuit boards or visible damage. Replace the display control module or ice and water dispenser control module if damaged.

 

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